1999 zx7r electrical issues - Kawasaki Forum :: KawasakiWorld.com
 
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post #1 of 8 Old 03-10-2010, 08:41 AM Thread Starter
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1999 zx7r electrical issues

Short version… it would seem that I am intermittently not getting spark to the plugs. Bike tries to start… fuel pump brings in gas… starter cranks… but no spark. I pull the plugs one at a time and reattach then to their coil, hold them against the block to look for a spark. No spark.

Now I know there are several safety kill switches… kick stand, clutch lever, ignition key… if any of these were acting to keep the bike from running would the starter even engage?

Another way of saying that is… since the starter is in fact engaging, does that mean that there shouldn’t be any safety feature restricting the flow of electricity through the coils and up to the plugs?

This inquiry is simply meant to start the conversation. I want to start with eliminating the possibility that some bad switch in some safety feature is holding me back. [if the starter is cranking there is nothing that should be keeping electricity from getting to the plug? True false?] Also, let me know what you all think I should check next. I have been through the entire electrical system and am willing to go through it over and over again but if this problem sounds familiar to someone id like to know what their issues turned out to be.
Other times the bike starts fine and runs well.
If you need more info or symptoms I have plenty to say.
Thanks in advance for any help you can share,
luke
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post #2 of 8 Old 04-20-2011, 06:19 AM
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check battery voltage while cranking, if it drops below 10.5vdc then you will not get spark. also try swapping you coil wires(i.e. the green and the black/yellow) and see if that helps at all.

"For those who have fought for it, life has a flavor the protected will never know" Author unknown.
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post #3 of 8 Old 10-05-2011, 04:27 PM
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I have a 99 ZX7R that I recently bought, I'm not new to riding but haven't owned a bike
for the last 20 or so yrs due to an accident which almost killed me. So obviously I have
not worked on one for the same length of time either, can you help me to find the idle
adjuster screw/knob and how do I go about checking my stator/reg rectifier to see why
my battery isn't charging? I can ride but I have to recharge the battery for the next ride
Also, would adjusting my idle affect the fact that I have to ride with full choke on?
Sorry so many questions
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post #4 of 8 Old 10-07-2011, 12:50 PM
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hi luke

i have had similar problems with bikes in the past here is what i would do:-

the safety switches are on the following:-

1) clutch lever
2)side stand/neutral switch
3)ignition switch
4)kill switch

what i would do is bridge all of the switches so they are temporarily closed,(except for the ignition switch at this stage assuming it is ok) then this would eliminate your question if one was open would the bike still crank but not spark, your answer to that is if all safety switches are working correctly than you shouldn't be able to crank the bike over and or see a spark, in the worst case if you have come off your bike, then some bikes were fitted with a tilt sensor usually found under left side rear faring panel, and may require reset, even if you have not had a crash, but you get your knee down, the angle that you do it at can trigger this sensor(this is a long shot).

so you bridge out the switches and you crank it, if nothing else wrong with your bike then it should fire up.

now if it doesn't fire up whip the spark plug out earth it against the block ht lead on but away from the spark plug hole crank it literally quick on and off the starter switch see if there is a blue spark(please remember health and saftey this is dangerous petrol could ignite if you crank it too much and have the plug too near the spark plug hole)(too be extra careful turn the fuel off and take fuel tank off bike and make sure no petrol left in motor or residual any where then carry out the test) im not trying to sound funny but this is what i would do.

still no spark, tank would have to come off anyway, time to check the coil packs, there is a primary and secondary winding in the coil pack both can be tested to see if grafting with a multimeter, and there should be x2 little wires going to the coil pack should be 12v feed to one of them on either side assuming you have x2 coil packs. you will have to find out the voltages and resistance's from a technical data manual on your bike to see what they should be putting out.

in my experience these are the items what have failed on myself

1) coil packs primary windings defect not producing spark at ht lead (ie spark plug, replaced coil packs.

2)pick up coil

3)snapped earth wire in wiring loom just under the headstock, that connects to the ignition switch.

4)diode in the wiring loom which sends power to neutral light on dash board, it fails and produces an open circuit.bike cranks but will not start.

start by checking you have all the correct voltage feeds from battery-ignition switches, coil packs, etc and same for resistances. before ripping your bike to bit so to speak,
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post #5 of 8 Old 10-07-2011, 01:15 PM
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continued

hi luke

other thing to check the end of the ht lead that go's to the spark plug the actual cap some were made out of rubber and some were made out of a brown say ceramic material, these go hard and brittle over time same for rubber, over time they produce an external hair line crack, your unable to see it with out bending the rubber type gently to check, ceramic ones usually see them straight away, as has a white colour hair line crack, very distinguishable, causes intermittent problems like your having, spark there one minute gone the next, also check to see if there is any what's called tracking on the inside of the ht cap, as this also causes problems, as both the above mention allows the spark to track to earth, some time you can see the spark track in a dark room/garage, if this is the case the rubber type caps can be replaced with the brown after market screw type caps, if they allready have the brown type caps, another thing to check for is if the cap looks fine, unscrew the ht cap, and look down the bore if you want to call it, of the ht lead it self and check that there is a good wad of copper strands showing and slightly protruding the rubber sheath, as this is what makes contact with the screw in the top of the ht cap, if there is only one or two strands, cut the sheath back little, and if have enough length on the ht lead to do this,screw the cap back on and try.
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post #6 of 8 Old 10-07-2011, 01:18 PM
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let me know of your outcomes and al try to help you as much as i can, there are alot of avenues still to try and check, but these are normally where the fault lies
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post #7 of 8 Old 12-02-2011, 03:41 PM
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ignition swich is bad, common problem with these bikes
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post #8 of 8 Old 06-18-2013, 07:24 PM
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Hi Micheal would you be available to answer a few questions regarding electrical on a zx7r yr2000 ninja
i have everything working but the headlamps...
I checked all fuses...included the starter 30 amp fuse..everything is in order..
i checked the wires running into the headlamp and there is no voltage..i was going to buy a voltage tester and pull the tank off and the rear tail and check the voltage down that line..any suggestions on any other things it could be. I heard there was some kind of inline fuse that could cause problems near the gas switch...
unfortunately the dashboard isn't original..and I have to get the manual for that...from a friend...
wiring in rear seems ok...rear tail light and signals working fine and the dashboard..there is a relay wire connection giving me some problems but I think just soldering it will fix it...the relay appears undamaged..i will provide more info on it later...
i will be tracing the voltage from the front to the battery...any suggestions appreciated...
Richard
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