1986 ninja 600R valve setting - Kawasaki Forum :: KawasakiWorld.com
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post #1 of 20 Old 08-06-2014, 07:40 PM Thread Starter
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1986 ninja 600R valve setting

Hey all
Just a question on valve setting on my relic after sitting for many years. I am setting the valve and the manual says that the to measure the valves whose cam lobe is pointing away from the the rocker arm. So the question is that when #1 is at TDC the cam lobes are pointing away for that cylinder for both EX & IN valves. The manual shows that #2 EX and #3 IN also gets checked but the lobes are not pointing away from the the rocker arm. Do I have to turn the crankcase till the lobes are pointing away to make those measurements. Any suggestions would help
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post #2 of 20 Old 08-07-2014, 02:39 AM
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Hey all
Just a question on valve setting on my relic after sitting for many years. I am setting the valve and the manual says that the to measure the valves whose cam lobe is pointing away from the the rocker arm. So the question is that when #1 is at TDC the cam lobes are pointing away for that cylinder for both EX & IN valves. The manual shows that #2 EX and #3 IN also gets checked but the lobes are not pointing away from the the rocker arm. Do I have to turn the crankcase till the lobes are pointing away to make those measurements. Any suggestions would help
Does the feeler gauge slide under them?

cmg
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post #3 of 20 Old 08-07-2014, 03:14 PM
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Originally Posted by Heckler View Post
Hey all
Just a question on valve setting on my relic after sitting for many years. I am setting the valve and the manual says that the to measure the valves whose cam lobe is pointing away from the the rocker arm. So the question is that when #1 is at TDC the cam lobes are pointing away for that cylinder for both EX & IN valves. The manual shows that #2 EX and #3 IN also gets checked but the lobes are not pointing away from the the rocker arm. Do I have to turn the crankcase till the lobes are pointing away to make those measurements. Any suggestions would help
Lobe pointing away ensures the valve to be fully closed and at max clearance. These bikes have to have fairly regular valve adjustments as they tend to get very hard to cold start. I just did them on my 85 600 not long ago. I turn each cylinder to tdc to be sure.

Sin
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post #4 of 20 Old 08-07-2014, 05:11 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks
Will cycle through each one and have the lobe facing away from the rocker and do each one.
Thanks
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post #5 of 20 Old 09-03-2014, 06:02 PM Thread Starter
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Ok. Stumped on this. Set my valves 7 on the inlets & 8 on the exhausts and had the carbs cleaned several times even to the point that they soaked completely for a week and then blown out with air. Also new carb kits installed with new jets installed. New plugs and battery so after all said just waiting to get this rolling as been working on for a while. To top it off I put new tires,chain,sprockets,wheel bearings,rebuilt forks,rebuilt petcock so not much left I hope. After that being said I put all back together and have fuel flow and spark but still will not start when choked. Also will not start when giving it throttle as it wouldn't even when it was new. So I ended up using some starting fluid and got it running. I actually let it run for at least an hour as it would idle good and rev good. I took it for a ride around the block and drove prefect. When shutting off it would fire up no problem. Problem is the f#€#£en thing just doesn't want to start or even fire when cold but with a bit of help fires up right away. Getting good at ripping this apart but getting fed up and nearing the end of the season. Any other thoughts would greatly help. Please. Thanks
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post #6 of 20 Old 09-03-2014, 09:18 PM
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Do a compression check mate!!
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post #7 of 20 Old 09-04-2014, 09:37 AM Thread Starter
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That was my next step tonight
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post #8 of 20 Old 09-05-2014, 01:03 PM Thread Starter
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Ok. What would be the next step. Bought a compression tester as I thought the rings may be seized but each cylinder was slightly over 150 psi and 1 was even 160. Any more thoughts
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post #9 of 20 Old 09-05-2014, 01:29 PM
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Normally I would suggest having the head checked for warpage, but you are getting compression so...my question is this. Did you test the compression both cold and hot?

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post #10 of 20 Old 09-05-2014, 04:36 PM Thread Starter
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No just cold as I used starting fluid to start it and had it running for over an hour. Just thinking that it may still be something with my carbs as it may not being drawing fuel into the engine when choked. Like I was saying I soaked the carbs and blew out but I may have to rod out the choke passage with a piece of wire.
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post #11 of 20 Old 09-05-2014, 04:39 PM
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I don't think compression is the issue here.

I'm leaning towards the idle/starting circuit of your carburetors.
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post #12 of 20 Old 09-05-2014, 05:31 PM Thread Starter
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Just curious , what do you exactly mean when you reference the "idle/starting circuit " of the carbs
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post #13 of 20 Old 09-05-2014, 06:00 PM
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Pilot jet and them tiny little passages that are a bitch to clean without an acid bath and air compressor....as well as pilot air screw passages.....

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post #14 of 20 Old 09-05-2014, 07:03 PM Thread Starter
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These were all replaced new original OEM parts
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post #15 of 20 Old 09-06-2014, 03:41 PM
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Just because you replaced the threaded orifices doesn't mean the passage from the jet to the carb bore is clear.

A guy I know uses a white vinegar bath to dissolve deposits. Acetic acid may attack aged rubber components so remove as many of these as you can prior to immersion.
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