ZZR1400 ABS Brake Wiring - Kawasaki Forum :: KawasakiWorld.com
 
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post #1 of 11 Old 01-27-2011, 02:13 PM Thread Starter
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Question ZZR1400 ABS Brake Wiring

Gents ( andladies if around)
I am looking for a little help with a wiring problem.
I have managed over winter to shoe-horn a ZZR14 ABS system into ZX12R. I took it for a first spin last night and it pretty much worked fine. Fantastic actually, so I was very pleased.

I am using a downloaded ZZR manual for guidence and in particular diagrams on pages 12-32 and12-33. I am having trouble resolving the final three wires in my set-up.
Ref diagram 12-33 I think this is correct:
Pin 10 = the wire to the ABS external system connector=item 20 on diag 12-32 and is the Pink wire.

Pin 13 = diagnosis wire = item 23 on 12-32 and grey colour

pin 21 = LED wire in the meter unit ( dashboard) = item 18 on 12-32 and colour black and white.

Can anyone confirm the above thinking and also tell me whether the wire on pin 13 is active high or active low, by which I mean, when the ABS light is on, is the voltage on pin 13 High (near 12v) or low ( near 0v).

I have scoured the service manual and cant resolve these last three wires.

No combination will operate the way the manual describes so I am suspicious that my ABS pump was on EBAY for a reason.
Hope someone can help out.

Thanks
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post #2 of 11 Old 01-27-2011, 09:17 PM
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P-13 ~ Gray = Self-diagnosis
P-10 ~ Pink = Self-diagnosis ABS external
P-21 ~ Bk/W = Meter Unit

Pin 13 can be found by back-probing the wire with the key on. Ohm meter set at 20 volts. Ground the black probe, then back probe the pin with the red probe from the meter. Use thin safety wire under the weather-pac rubber grommets so you can tag the pin; either behind that blank plug or if a wire has that seal at the harness connectors. You should eventually see your meter swing to near your 0v or near your 12v hi/low numbers.

Taken from the ABS section out of a 14 book. Wiring kind of remains universal with said product between brands and developing years. Still, the warning banner is out, I match color for color in the ABS chapter.
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post #3 of 11 Old 01-28-2011, 02:02 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks

Thanks for the response, it's good to get clarification of what I had pieced together from the diagrams.

Can anybody answer the last question I had. Is the LED signal to the meter console active high or active low.

Thanks again.
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post #4 of 11 Old 01-28-2011, 05:30 PM
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Think about this. I am one wire to ground and one 12v wire hot to the ECU. I am now hot to send sensors 0 to 5 volts. If I am not gray and hot, am I not a low signal? Am I not active low if you took that out of the shop manual. We have digital display that needs 10ths of volts we move a water bar or how low is the gas gauge kind of active low output?

Is not the same low active input not 12v if active high means 12 and active low means 0 to 5v. The question is; are we using book abstract or pasmow-speak, we pass along what is meant in the factory service manual.
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post #5 of 11 Old 02-01-2011, 01:55 PM Thread Starter
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Hi again.
Tried to post a diagram to explain myself more clearly but failed.

In the smplest terms I can think of:
Can anyone measure the voltage of the Black and white wire at the meter circuit when the ABS LED is ON and the same voltage when the LED is off.



Thanks again
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post #6 of 11 Old 02-12-2011, 01:29 PM Thread Starter
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ABS Problem solved

Hi
I thought I had better close this out in case the information is ever needed by anyone else.

The answer is that the blk/wht wire to the meter unit is ACTIVE LOW.

Basically the indicator LED for the ABS system in the meter unit is connected to the positive rail of the battery (12v). In order to make it illuminate and signal the rider, the ABS ECU momentarily drops the blk/wht wire to almost ground (almost 0v ) which lights the indicator and passes information about the state of the brake system to the rider.
After a bit if digging in the Kawasaki ZZR1400 manual this confirmed in the electrical section 16.69 where pin 6 of the meter circuit is listed as ABS LED ( - ).
Lastly, the active pulse to illuminate the ABS LED is of a very short duration. So short as to be impractical as an indicator.( around 0.01 seconds). This was solved using a pulse stretching circuit ( known as a gated monostable) where a short signal in produces a longer signal out. In the case 0.01 seconds in makes 0.5 seconds out.

Curiously the short pulse only occurred at start up. The diagnostic message pulses were well timed without any pulse stretching. These pulses are shown as 0.4secs in the manual.

The outcome of this is that I now have a ZX12R with ABS. Fully tested and working and now with the added (useful) feedback of the LED fault indicator.

Have to say that the ABS setup you ZZR guys have enjoyed as standard is very good. Never had ABS before, but can't see me doing without it again.

Last edited by passmow; 02-12-2011 at 01:32 PM.
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post #7 of 11 Old 01-27-2013, 01:51 AM
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Guide

Hi.
Is it possible for you to make a guide on this modification? This is what I have been looking for.

If not then maybe just the shopping list on parts needed.
i am driving a 2003 zx-12r

Greetings from Denmark.
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post #8 of 11 Old 07-26-2015, 04:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by passmow View Post
Hi
I thought I had better close this out in case the information is ever needed by anyone else.

The answer is that the blk/wht wire to the meter unit is ACTIVE LOW.

Basically the indicator LED for the ABS system in the meter unit is connected to the positive rail of the battery (12v). In order to make it illuminate and signal the rider, the ABS ECU momentarily drops the blk/wht wire to almost ground (almost 0v ) which lights the indicator and passes information about the state of the brake system to the rider.
After a bit if digging in the Kawasaki ZZR1400 manual this confirmed in the electrical section 16.69 where pin 6 of the meter circuit is listed as ABS LED ( - ).
Lastly, the active pulse to illuminate the ABS LED is of a very short duration. So short as to be impractical as an indicator.( around 0.01 seconds). This was solved using a pulse stretching circuit ( known as a gated monostable) where a short signal in produces a longer signal out. In the case 0.01 seconds in makes 0.5 seconds out.

Curiously the short pulse only occurred at start up. The diagnostic message pulses were well timed without any pulse stretching. These pulses are shown as 0.4secs in the manual.

The outcome of this is that I now have a ZX12R with ABS. Fully tested and working and now with the added (useful) feedback of the LED fault indicator.

Have to say that the ABS setup you ZZR guys have enjoyed as standard is very good. Never had ABS before, but can't see me doing without it again.
Old topic but new project for me. I'm doing a similar thing. The issue I also have is with the ABS LED, tho I have yet to finish the hyd side of the mod. Not being into electronics, what precisely is this: pulse stretching circuit ( known as a gated monostable) and how do I make one?
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post #9 of 11 Old 08-01-2015, 04:44 AM
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I'd done some bench testing of the unit before fitting it to the bike and had a problem getting the LED to work, but the unit was drawing 0.5 amp which indicated it was 'alive.' I have yet to road test the bike as I am awaiting a tone ring. I was supplied with an incorrect one.

I still need advice from passmore on how he got the LED working. Interestingly tho, it will flash with fault codes. Are you there passmore?

Last edited by Freddy; 08-04-2015 at 03:18 PM.
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post #10 of 11 Old 08-24-2015, 07:10 PM
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To conclude, I finally fitted the correct ABS tone ring and the ABS system (from a 2008 1400GTR or ZX14) functions as it should, this is on a 1992 Kawasaki 1000GTR (Concours10, ZG 1000). The only issue was getting the LED to operate correctly. I found that the LED works in reverse order than it does on the donor bike (due to being linked to the bike's ECU via the instrument cluster) ie when reading fault codes I had to count blanks between blinks (flashes) of the LED. Also, when ign is switched on, the LED was off but after riding the few metres for the system/fault check the LED came on and stayed on indicating no faults. This was confirmed by testing the activating the ABS both front and rear. which was functioning correctly. To correct the warning LED issue I fitted a 680ohm resistor to 12v ign feed, the other end to the black/white signal wire to the ABS unit PLUS the +ve LED wire, then the -ve LED wire to earth. One very minor issue remains; the LED has a faint glow after the system/fault check, which is barely visible in daylight.
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post #11 of 11 Old 08-30-2015, 02:22 AM
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Here's a link to the forum where I have posted details of the ABS retro fit, for future reference.

Brake Upgrade and Performance Boost for Das Boot in 1000GTR Technical Discussions Forum
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