I would not worry about it. For one, if say the oil passage becomes clogged, the backup is this tensioner is ratchet style.
You have to push a lever to slide the locker over the teeth of the shaft of that tensioner. So, no matter the slight loss of pressure, the arm is so close to the slipper, there is no way the chain runs up over [those] teeth of the cam sprocket(s).
This noise is so common, that there has yet to be chain slipping off the sprockets and tagging valves. Not one 14 has done that yet; am I correct?
And you sure do not want a racing type tensioner. You need to adjust that every few hundred miles or every 5 times out on the WOT, where... Racing is racing.
Clearly you've never used a manual tensioner. Honda's bullet proof XR/ATC 200 engines all used a manual design as did the Yamaha SR500, hardly racers. The early Kaws had manual adjust tensioners, not a particularly bullet proof design, but manual none the less.
In 28,000 miles I've adjusted my manual tensioner 4 times on the KLX650, more frequently in the first several thousand miles after the rebuild partially caused by the OEM ratchet style tensioners that failed and less often now that all is seated/broken in. In 28,000 miles the total adjustment has been less than one full turn of the M8-1.25 bolt, which is less than 1/16th inch. That is probably less than one tooth of the OEM ratchet mechanism, I can't tell you for sure since I tossed the OEM unit after seeing the wear pattern. That is part of the problem, the ratchet takes a long distance to snap over a tooth and if it doesn't quite get far enough it will get kidked back, rounding off the edges of the pawl and rack - eventually over a couple of teeth, which some of us have observed, making for a lot more play than you want to believe.
At this point I actually can't remember the last time I had to adjust the KLX tensioner. In 7000 miles on the Zephyr the manual tensioner has yet to need adjusting, it was replaced before the cam drive was hosed up, so the chain and such are seated/broken in.
With the manual tensioners there is the audible light ticking when the tensioner needs adjusted and it's less often than the valves on most bikes. It takes a few minutes, longer to take off fairing panels than the actual adjustment. Now that's far better than the two ratchet style tensioners that failed in 15,000 miles on the KLX, the second one cost $70 and in the long run a few hundred more for new cam chains and the rebuild.
The fact is I put a tensioner in an Eliminator while at Mid Ohio, 10 minutes to take out the old and put in the new. Then after a warm up another 5 minutes to adjust. It likely won't need adjusted for another several thousand miles. The total play when the chain starts lightly clicking is only maybe .010", a failed tensioner will have up to .125" play based on the wear a few of us have observed on the ratchet rack teeth where the rack is pushed back and forth under the pawl.
Then there is the cam chain guide wear caused by the spring or hydraulic pressure constantly pushing a bit on the guide, where the manual tensioners are adjusted only to take out the slack, not preload the chain. Most riders using manual tensioners properly adjusted (which isn't rocket science)
won't go back to OEM "automatic" ones... none that I've ever heard of or read about.
Of course I hope the 14 doesn't have the same issues as the 1000 and I guarantee even if they did not all of them will have it happen. It only happens to some of the Eliminators, Concours, Zephyrs, and KZs. The fact is I've had two guys I knew of that had over 100,000 miles and just now are having problems. Both went to manual tensioners for cost, fine adjustment, and reliability.
Tensioner failures happen a lot more on the KLX650Cs and Rs because of the stress dual sporting and off roading will put on the cam drive. Not too many Concours are thrashed up a washboard gravel road or trail slamming the cam drive back and forth between acceleration and deceleration as mine gets. It is a whole lot less common on the street bikes, but if the tensioner does fail the manual unit is a totally viable way to go. It's better than having to pull out and clean an "automatic" tensioner every so often whenever it decides to quit working.