Stator or battery - Kawasaki Forum :: KawasakiWorld.com
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  • 1 Post By Savagerider
  • 1 Post By ninjayorkie
  • 1 Post By JayZX12R
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post #1 of 15 Old 03-21-2017, 04:33 AM Thread Starter
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Stator or battery

So sometimes when I turn my bike off right after starting it, it won't start. It sits around 11.7 to 12.0 volts but when I jump start it and drive it the battery volt is 13.4 while driving. After driving for a while and turning off bike it will sit at 12.4 and if I start it, it will start but if I turn it off and try to start again instantly it won't it will be back to 11.7 to 12.0 volts
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post #2 of 15 Old 03-21-2017, 05:39 AM
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Where are you checking the voltage at? Sometimes if your voltmeter is wired up by the clocks the voltage shows a little less than it should do, I know my gear / voltmeter does.

Probably still a weak battery.
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For Tech Questions Bike Model letters are more useful than saying the year, for uk owners anyway, as registration year is not always year of manufacturer model.
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post #3 of 15 Old 03-21-2017, 06:39 AM
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You have to check the stator voltage, I think it is AC 85 - 120 V when you connect to any 2 of the 3 wires. I do wire 1 & 2, then 1 & 3, then lastly 2 & 3.

But don't count out the regulator. My stator was fine, but the regulator was bad, this wasn't properly charging the battery. The bike was fine from a cold start, but would have a hard time on a hot start. The regulator is on the gas side of the bike under the rear tail section (bolted outside to the frame).
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post #4 of 15 Old 03-21-2017, 07:23 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ninjayorkie View Post
Where are you checking the voltage at? Sometimes if your voltmeter is wired up by the clocks the voltage shows a little less than it should do, I know my gear / voltmeter does.

Probably still a weak battery.
Hi Yorkie. I am having the same problem as savage rider. I think its my battery, but I want to check my system just to confirm with a multi meter. If I want to check the voltage coming from the stator, do I need to unplug the 3 yellow wires going to the reg / rec and then just check across these 3 coming from the stator? Sorry Savagerider for jumping on your thread, but my problem is identical to what you described.
Dave
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post #5 of 15 Old 03-21-2017, 07:49 AM Thread Starter
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I have a digital volt meter that is hooked directly to battery at all times
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post #6 of 15 Old 03-21-2017, 07:51 AM Thread Starter
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I don't have an actual volt meter mine is a digital one that is wired to battery through handgrip. Is there another way to check to see if it's battery, to stator
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post #7 of 15 Old 03-21-2017, 01:20 PM
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take the battery out and take it to a battery dealer and get them to check it for you they will do a load test, I think its your battery, I had a similar problem my bike would start in the morning but when hot would not start, changed my battery and now good, anything below 12.6 volts your battery is flat if you have 13.4 v while driving your charging system sounds ok
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if anything goes wrong check the battery
B1 black and "GOLD"
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post #8 of 15 Old 03-21-2017, 02:23 PM
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I know this is for the zx9 but there the same regulators. Diagram 15.26 just the top part shows you how the check the regulator rectifier, I've seen one with a blown diode still giving out 13/14 volts but not enough amps to charge the battery. zx-9r.net :: View topic - zx9 E Alternator and Regulator Checking.

@redwon, same link above shows how to test it.
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post #9 of 15 Old 03-22-2017, 06:30 AM
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A little common sense should be applied to this situation. How old is your battery? If it's only a couple seasons old, I wouldn't suspect it.
If it's 4 years old or older, then you're living in the bonus time. A friend insists on battery replacement on a schedule, while I typically
end up in some catastrophe.

To test the stator, disconnect the lead from the R/R. Start the bike, and then apply a voltmeter across any two of the output leads from the stator.

When my stator - R/R connection initially burned like so many of ours have, I stripped the wires back to before the char, crimped on new blade connectors,
and continued to use it. Eventually, that also failed and I got a new stator and R/R, as well as a battery.

If the stator - R/R connection looks healthy, then it probably IS healthy. A voltage check per above on the stator should add confidence.
I have tolerated some pretty terrible battery behavior, such as 12.9-13.1V while riding and sluggish starting, before full failure. It's kinda stupid.
Once you replace the battery and reacquaint yourself with healthy starting and running, you'll wonder why you ignored the symptoms.
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post #10 of 15 Old 03-26-2017, 07:01 AM
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I checked out the stator and the output is 60 AC Volts across all 3 yellow wires. it rises from about 16 on tickover up to 60v at 4,000 rpm.
The rectifier checked out to Yorkies post. When I connected the meter to the battery on tickover it was about 12.8v. When I revved it, the volts dropped. I had this in 2014 and changed my original stator that was putting out 70V at 4,000, which is below the manual spec.
This alternator has a lower output. I bought a new Yuasa YTX14-BS battery yesterday, and everything is better. On tick over it is about 13.8v and falls to 13.5V at 4,000.
So my battery was knackered giving out bum readings, even though my stator output is low to the manual specs.
I am also going to send my original stator out to a rewind company to get it checked out and maybe improve on the 70 volts it was putting out, and keep it as a back up.
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post #11 of 15 Old 03-26-2017, 12:20 PM
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When I was having electrickery problems I wired in a volt meter direct to battery through fuse, I used a relay and the parking light circuit to trip the relay so when the ignition is on the meter is on, just a little peace of mind when riding cheap from eBay, waterproof and easy to install good job Craig
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if anything goes wrong check the battery
B1 black and "GOLD"
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post #12 of 15 Old 03-26-2017, 05:18 PM
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I been having the great cold start and hard warm start issue myself past few fireups. Took the battery to work and tested it, and it passed with well over the needed cranking amps. I think there may be more going on tho. That's a cold battery test. It doesn't measure the battery when it is nice and cozy warm inside the frame with all loads attached. The reg/rec issue is interesting. I may have to look into that as well.

Looking to dump some time and much needed maint into the old girl this year, and just thought I'd chime in and mention that even a tested good battery may not always be a real-world test.....
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post #13 of 15 Old 03-26-2017, 08:35 PM
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yeah I always tell people to get their battery tested no good throwing money away

if anything goes wrong check the battery
B1 black and "GOLD"
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post #14 of 15 Old 03-28-2017, 05:31 PM
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Yea...gettin a test is still better than just guessing.

I like the idea of wiring in a small voltage meter on the bike. Gonna have to look around and find a good small one I can tuck under the windshield over the clocks. Keep an eye real-time on what the electricicals are doing....
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post #15 of 15 Old 04-01-2017, 10:54 AM
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I was chatting to Sharon at west Country Winding the other day. I told her I had fitted a new battery and my voltage at the battery was 13.8 on tick over and falls when i rev it to 4,000 rpm. She explained that this should not happen and my reg/rec was the culprit. So I bit the bullet and ordered a Mosfet one. Fitted it today and it ticks over at 13.2V and increases to 13.8V when I rev it. Happy Days.
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