I don't know that there is bushing in the forks besides what you have on the axle. If the bike has lower miles, replacing the oil seal should be fine. If higher miles, maybe also the dust cap, and if you are stripping it down all the way, maybe the washers at the very bottom. Before I recently did mine, I did not notice others replacing more parts than these with the exception of the springs.
are the seals leaking ??
if not take top off forks pour and pump oil out and replace with fresh
just a thought
Good point Paul65.
When I got my bike it was 16 years old and even if the previous owner thought it had been done I felt it was good insurance to go ahead and have it done. Once the forks are off, I had thought why not but it feels like you already more than half way there. The tool that I made to separate the forks cost about $10 not including the drill bit, drill, and hand tools that I already had. The separating of the forks was not that bad. The hardest part for me was getting the new seals on which was my own doing as I did not want to spend the bucks for the correct tool and ended up making one instead. However, it's nice when riding and you know what's between your legs.
Ok I've split the forks. Theres two bushing in the fork upper. Can't seem to find replacements but either way they feel ok. I found my problem theres wear on the fork chrome. I'm not 100% sure how to separate the chrome bit from the caliper hanger. I found a grub screw close to the 'L' bracket for the mudguard. I can't for the life of me figure whats going to remove it. Has anyone done this before
you should have a tube and the ali bit you want off
it has a grub screw on the inside face/ remove it.
clamp the tube in such a way that you wont damage or distort it.
heat the ali bit with a torch ( its loctitied )
wind the ali bit off ( its threaded on)
I find it also helps if once you've removeded the grub screw you have the threaded hole pointing upwards and put in a few drops of oil as you are heating, the oil then starts to soak into the thread/loctite and helps to stop the threads picking up.
You really need a proper circular clamp on the stanchion to hold it tight. If you use a tube or axle in the foot make sure the axle pinch bolts are in and at least finger tight to stop the casting breaking.