2000 ZX12R - Electrical Gremlins (maybe ECU) - Kawasaki Forum :: KawasakiWorld.com
 
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post #1 of 2 Old 12-18-2016, 08:54 PM Thread Starter
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2000 ZX12R - Electrical Gremlins (maybe ECU)

Hey Everyone,

I have bought somewhat recently a 2000 ZX12R, stock as they come with 38,000km on it. It currently is experiencing some crazy electronic gremlins. as soon as i bought the bike i found that i had 4 faulty spark plugs, causing a stalling issue at idle or closed throttle when warm.

While riding, it started to "Cut Out" while in higher RPM (felt like a fuel cut). it was not showing any error codes at this point. this issue developed until it finally let go on me and blew the 10A ignition fuse. i refitted the 10A fuse and as soon as i turned the key to the on position it would blow again.

I have replaced the fuel pump as the bike had been sitting for approx 2 years before i got it. After replacing the fuel pump, the issue of the ignition fuse still remained. at some point after the fuel pump was replaced it stopped priming when turning the key to the on position.

If i disconnect all the ignition coils the 10A fuse will not blow, but as soon as i plug all 4 coils in it will blow. as i connect each coil the dash lights will become gradually dimmer, signs of a large current draw?

to rule out a fuel pump relay issue, i swapped the relays between the ecu and the fuel pump. the fuel pump still would not run. I tried earthing out the fuel pump relay and it would trigger the pump to run. i have also checked the continuity of the brown / yellow wire (i think thats the colour, its the fuel pump signal wire from ECU like pin 9 or something) and it checks fine.

After having the key on for 15min or so i noticed that the ECU relay felt warm, so i checked the ECU itself and it was quite hot to touch in one corner. Nearly too hot to comfortably handle.

Has anyone had a similar issue? i am leaning toward an internal fault in the ECU because of the significant heat (the ecu being plastic and not subject to airflow makes me think it is not meant to get warm) and the fuel pump is not being triggered.

Is there a way to test the ECU for faults without purchasing another to swap over? the bike wreckers over here are asking around $250 plus postage for one.

Cheers

James
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post #2 of 2 Old 12-19-2016, 06:21 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SuperHoon View Post
If i disconnect all the ignition coils the 10A fuse will not blow, but as soon as i plug all 4 coils in it will blow. as i connect each coil the dash lights will become gradually dimmer, signs of a large current draw?
This does point toward a failed ECU.

Quote:
Originally Posted by SuperHoon View Post
I am leaning toward an internal fault in the ECU because of the significant heat
Me to.

The ECU fuse is 15Amp and next to the ECU relay.

If you unplug the fuel pump relay, does the 10Amp IG fuse still blow in the fuse box?

ECU for the A1 has 2 equal sized plugs, the A2 DOES NOT so dont get the wrong one.

Definitely worth checking the wiring before finding a replacement ECU.
ECU Service Manual section 2 pages 43/44/45 Page 44 says how to do voltage and earth checks on the ECU
ECU Service Manual section 15 pages 30/31/32 Page 32 gives a nice little wiring diagram for checking ignition wiring.

Sorry I can't be of any more help.

For Tech Questions Bike Model letters are more useful than saying the year, for uk owners anyway, as registration year is not always year of manufacturer model.
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