Stator Burnt Again!! - Kawasaki Forum :: KawasakiWorld.com
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post #1 of 16 Old 11-26-2016, 08:54 PM Thread Starter
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Stator Burnt Again!!

Even after all the modifications and repairs I had done to the stator/reg and associated wiring, my re-wound stator has burnt out 1 phase!

To be fair to the bike electrician who did the repairs 3 years ago, he did explain that even after the repairs it was no guarantee it would not happen again.

This time my symptoms were the bike failing to start during the last 2 sessions at Phillip Island track and having to be push started. On reflection I do recall the gauge lights dimming when using the indicators, a sign of weakening battery strength. A couple of days ago I was stranded near home (luckily) at night when the battery finally died and stopped the bike. Had to call my wife, lift home, get tools and spare battery, return to bike and swap over batteries.

Inspection today of stator showed one burnt phase - initial resistance tests showed a lower reading from one combination of stator wire testing, also couldn't get a reading of alternator output (usually 85 - 120v @ 4k rpm).

I will be contacting the electrician to re-wind the stator, AND I will get another spare stator and have that re-wound at the same time to keep aside!!

This is not a lack of confidence in the initial repair process, as explained it could have happened again anyway.

Don.
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post #2 of 16 Old 11-27-2016, 02:35 AM
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Hi Don not good about electrickery problems sounds like you know how to sort it out, I bet your wife was "really" happy about running around, I installed a volt meter on my bike after a couple of battery problems it sure is cheap insurance when you can see what is happening at a quick glance and a couple of bucks from eBay, I connected it straight to battery with an inline fuse and I used a relay and the running light to switch it so it only comes on when the key is on
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post #3 of 16 Old 11-27-2016, 07:41 AM
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Originally Posted by dastardly View Post
Hi Don not good about electrickery problems sounds like you know how to sort it out, I bet your wife was "really" happy about running around, I installed a volt meter on my bike after a couple of battery problems it sure is cheap insurance when you can see what is happening at a quick glance and a couple of bucks from eBay, I connected it straight to battery with an inline fuse and I used a relay and the running light to switch it so it only comes on when the key is on
That is a good way of doing it , i do regular checks with a volt meter , but i am sure i read somewhere you can get a device and a app for your phone ? that way if your bike is parked for any long time you can keep an eye on things through your phone ?
with a shit charging system ,you do need a way of checking your volts ? my old gpz1100 uni-trak 32 years old, had a volt meter !!
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post #4 of 16 Old 11-27-2016, 10:43 AM
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Sorry about hijack i was asked how I installed voltmeter and couldn't add picture in personal message so thought i would add it here, please check connection instructions with the 12volt relay you buy my instructions are only a guide.

Hi it is real easy to instal as the voltmeter only has 2 wires + and - .Buy a relay at any auto store (normally open) and follow instructions, I just spliced into the running light so when the bike ignition is on the volt meter is on, at the positive side of your battery just make sure you use an inline fuse at the battery incase the wire gets an earth, and run an earth from the - side of the battery to the volt meter, some relays have 2 setups set this for normal open I think terminal 87
you will need
1) 12 volt relay
2) about 2 meters of wire
3) an inline fuse
4) some spade connectors to connect the wires to the relay
5) some heat shrink
6) 2 connectors to connect the wires to the battery
7) a 12 volt meter
I used some stick on velcro to attach the volt meter to the dash
On the relay
terminal 86 from your battery/inline fuse
87 from your running lights
30 to earth
85 to positive on volt meter
please check these from the relay packet instructions
I couldn't include a diagram so will add one in forum good luck Craig
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post #5 of 16 Old 11-27-2016, 10:45 AM
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sorry about the rough sketch I have Multiple Sclerosis and my hand does its own thing Craig

if anything goes wrong check the battery
B1 black and "GOLD"
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post #6 of 16 Old 11-27-2016, 12:39 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for that Craig, I think a volt meter is a good idea given the nature of the 12's charging system. I will definitely look into this.

My repairs will take a back seat for a short while as we are moving house this week (typical bad timing!).

Oh, and my wife didn't mind coming out in the dark, dark night to drive me back and forth, get tools and battery, sit in the car by the side of the road while I changed the battery.

Don.
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post #7 of 16 Old 11-29-2016, 12:18 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dastardly View Post
Sorry about hijack i was asked how I installed voltmeter and couldn't add picture in personal message so thought i would add it here, please check connection instructions with the 12volt relay you buy my instructions are only a guide.

Hi it is real easy to instal as the voltmeter only has 2 wires + and - .Buy a relay at any auto store (normally open) and follow instructions, I just spliced into the running light so when the bike ignition is on the volt meter is on, at the positive side of your battery just make sure you use an inline fuse at the battery incase the wire gets an earth, and run an earth from the - side of the battery to the volt meter, some relays have 2 setups set this for normal open I think terminal 87
you will need
1) 12 volt relay
2) about 2 meters of wire
3) an inline fuse
4) some spade connectors to connect the wires to the relay
5) some heat shrink
6) 2 connectors to connect the wires to the battery
7) a 12 volt meter
I used some stick on velcro to attach the volt meter to the dash
On the relay
terminal 86 from your battery/inline fuse
87 from your running lights
30 to earth
85 to positive on volt meter
please check these from the relay packet instructions
I couldn't include a diagram so will add one in forum good luck Craig



This does seem like a worth while project.
I have been caught out by the 12 'sudden battery failure' twice since I have had mine (11 years), as have a few others I know of !!!
The first time touring in France, stopped for lunch, 2 hours later, bike would not even turn over, clocks 'cycling', and then blank dash.
That battery was only 15 months old.
Though the second time, at home in my garage, the battery was showing 12.7 volts, but had no 'Balls' and couldn't turn the motor over.

Thanks Dave.

Edit: I found these http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/DC-3-5-30V...3D221803593682

.
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post #8 of 16 Old 11-29-2016, 12:59 AM
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Nice post there Craig, good tip with the voltmeter.

Pretty frustrating, but you'll get there Don!

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post #9 of 16 Old 11-29-2016, 02:33 AM
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Hi dave those are the ones I'm using cheap and they work and waterproof Craig
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post #10 of 16 Old 11-29-2016, 04:27 AM
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I got a tiny little one and managed to fit it under the clocks cover on the zx9r C model, it sits at the bottom of the speedo.
I then wired the negative to the neutral earth, as its switched it would only come on when the bike was in neutral and the ignition on, that way you can see the battery voltage, and then the engine running voltage before you set off and then the most of the time its not shining in your face.
Only saying this to give other ideas.

On the zx-12r I have a acumen dgv - digital gear and voltage indicator but have a switch to turn off the voltmeter when I want. Thinking about it now I should of wired that up the same mebbies.
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post #11 of 16 Old 11-29-2016, 07:05 AM
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Sounds like your pulling more current than the stator can produce Don.....hence it's getting hot and burning out ?

*** ZX12-R ~ XJR1300SP ~ XR650R ~ DT175MX ***
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post #12 of 16 Old 12-05-2016, 12:16 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Mauser View Post
Sounds like your pulling more current than the stator can produce Don.....hence it's getting hot and burning out ?
The bike electrician, whom I trust, reckons the alternator in these bikes pumps out too much juice, and the stator in the A models (not sure with '02, '03?) also has heavy wiring, this combines to build up the heat, which does the now all too obvious. He has done re-winding jobs ordered by manufacturers themselves, I think Triumph was one, as they couldn't be bothered to sort it themselves.

Either way even he says it's not a sure fix, and can go at anytime, but hopefully later!

Don.
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post #13 of 16 Old 12-05-2016, 12:19 AM Thread Starter
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And...he did mention the later model zx12r's had smaller alternator/rotors (someone may correct me if wrong), but Kawasaki then made the gap between the alternator and stator smaller, thus negating some of the benefit of smaller alternator!
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post #14 of 16 Old 12-05-2016, 02:56 AM
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Hi Duck00 just thinking about this and I know a lot of bikes suffer from earth faults where the earth wires are insufficient to carry the load I read on a triumph forum years ago how they were finding wherever earth wires crossed each other there bared the wires and soldered them together to make a bigger earth, for some reason bike companies keep going smaller with the earth and that doesn't work I know this has nothing to do with your problems it's something ore to add into the mix. are you pulling more power than the stator can produce or are you making more power than the regulator can shunt you might need to add a few sets of driving lights Craig
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post #15 of 16 Old 12-05-2016, 08:31 AM
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And...he did mention the later model zx12r's had smaller alternator/rotors (someone may correct me if wrong), but Kawasaki then made the gap between the alternator and stator smaller, thus negating some of the benefit of smaller alternator!
I assume he's talking about the flywheel? Since these bikes use a permanent magnet Stator and no Alternator/Rotor set up.
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