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What did you do to your ZX12R ninja today?

317K views 2K replies 202 participants last post by  SteveW 
#1 ·
What do You think about such thread?
Ok I will be first:

Titanium bleed niples for my 65mm brembo:


 
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#1,596 ·
I hope your wait time for the knee replacement is shorter than up here in the Great White North! I'll be lucky if I get under the blade in March 2019, one full year since meeting with the surgeons. Then wait another 6 months before going back in for an ankle replacement on the same leg.
The worst part is that I have not been able to ride the 12 since July of 2017, I just can not physically get my left foot on the peg, it just will not bend enough. So the 12 just sits and gathers dust and quietly waits for that special day...oh, how I long for that special day my Precious!
 
#1,597 ·
Sorry to hear that it’s going to take so long to get your surgery. My wait was about 2 months from the day I decided to go ahead and get it done. The 2 months also included the production of custom made prosthetics. I’m 3 weeks out from my surgery and I must say it’s been pretty rough. Good luck.
 
#1,605 ·
replaced head bearings on 12r yesterday as handling went strange ,always felt like tyre was low on pressure ...so new genuine bearings ordered and sitting waiting to be fitted ,front end stripped .and head stock was so notchy ,stripped off yokes and drifted out old ,bottom bearing was shot ,top looked well...so cleaned off old grease fitted new bearings and packed with grease ,settled them and a tad of preload and bike built back up====3hrs all in ..
ps never assume last owner had correct preload on head bearings.
Test rode after 100 yds you know its right :grin2: happy days
 
#1,607 ·
I've always replaced like for like, I read a post years ago about people upgrading to taper and have issues with bikes handling, I've always just replaced with what manufacturers put in originally, you can go wrong and to be honest getting preload right can be a nightmare, think last owner had to much on and due to nature of bike having no mainstand it's not the easiest to check unless all fairings are off and wheels forks brakes to get it right
 
#1,608 ·
This was interesting.... I am also checking to change out the head bearings.. I do not have any kind of feel that the head bearings on the bike right now have any issues, BUT gonna do a fork rebuild so thought Id refresh everything while I have the front end apart so I don't have to do it later...Plan was/is new fork internals and at the same time put in new head and wheel bearings... Then again weird that the tapered style bearings do not give the same kind of feel that the OEM ball bearings do, I would have bet money that the tapered bearings would feel tighter/better...

-Can you give more info about how the tapered bearings made the steering feel different???

These are the head bearings I looked at (Ebay) https://www.ebay.com/itm/Kawasaki-Z...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649

Thanks!
/Tom >:)
 
#1,610 ·
Very neat ZuminaZX!

As far as my experience with the taper/roller style bearings, they would initially tighten okay, then after only a few rides I would notice the slight movement and clunking again. Had to keep nipping up the tension on them. I didn't over tighten when setting them up as I was very careful to follow the manual specifications. I even went as far as to buy a factory jack for the 12, so the front was off the ground and rear on a paddock stand and I could turn the steering to check for slackness etc. The bearings I got were from All-Balls Racing, had tried two sets till giving up and going oem - problem fixed immediately!

Don.
 
#1,612 ·
I did some "Googling" about the ball vs. tapered bearings. What I found was that the tapered bearings are superior in many ways over the ball bearings, BUT I did find out something interesting and what may cause issues when changing over from OEM ball bearings to Aftermarket tapered bearings. Problem is not the AM tapered bearings them self. The issue is with the seals not fitting perfect, not allowing the metal plate part of the seal to mount flush with the bearing itself. When one tightens everything down the metal plate in the seal makes contact with the bearing but the rubber part of the seal can push down over the bearing lip and down onto the rollers making contact with them. I do not believe this so be an issue with all aftermarket parts, but worth looking at before mounting everything together... Easy enough to check, place the seal over the bearing, take a look how the seal fit against the bearing, if there is a "air gap" between the seal metal plate against the bearing because the rubber part of the seal is to tight against the bearing, that will most probably cause an issue when tightening everything down....

I hope you guys/girls can understand what I am trying to explain here.. Any way, I'm going to check the health of the head bearings and then decide what way to go - OEM or Aftermarket....

/Tom >:)
 
#1,620 ·
On the A1 the rubber bushings on the two front mounts do wear out from flex.
Your idea of a aluminum B model mount is very interesting. The steel ones I have do have a lot of wiggle. I’m assembling a 2003 frame 12 for track day work. Can’t see why a aluminum mount would be detrimental. Flex is the question

cmg
 

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#1,627 ·
the carbon couch!
 
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#1,634 ·
Nipped out to Squires Cafe for a quick brew, roads are damp and covered in mud with a sprinkling of salt. Not the best conditions for a quick blast that's for sure.

 
#1,638 ·
I have set up my big motors with pth as tight as .030. This saw the pistons polishing themselves on the head. Lol ptv on this set up was .040ish 8-10° atdc on intake. And +.085 7-10° btdc on the exhaust.

The engine I just finished is not as tight as my 1427. But has Carrillo’s, mtc pistons and .400 lift camshafts. My 1199 with stock bottom end and 385” lift cams and .018 hg had a lot of space.

If you wanted to bump compression, I would keep pth +.050 and mill the head.
Milling the head doesn’t change pth. But does change cam timing and ptv. With two intake cams and a 105/108 or 110/112 lobe center you will not have a issue with ptv.

I have not built a 1287 and stock rods. But I’m sure the numbers are comparable.
My Ace 1287 with stock rods a je pistons and 371” lift cams on a 030 hg and 1 .010
spacer under the block had lots of space too. Ace built it. I just took it apart ?

cmg
 
#1,639 · (Edited)
Installed my EK 530 ZVX3 chain and new JT steel rear sprocket. Also got my sick exhaust hanger (courtesy of cmg) and rearsets powdercoated, so slapped those back on the bike.

p.s.
don't worry, ordering a proper rear brake line tonight, lol
 

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