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backfiring

This is a discussion on backfiring within the ZX-12R forums, part of the Kawasaki Motorcycles category; Originally Posted by ivor hugh jass mine runs very rich on idle...u can smell the petrol...slight puff of black smoke aswell Is it rich enough ...


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Old 04-28-2012, 06:04 AM   #31
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Quote:
mine runs very rich on idle...u can smell the petrol...slight puff of black smoke aswell
Is it rich enough that it will start running on 3 cylinders?
   
 
Old 04-28-2012, 10:51 AM   #32
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I would say you have a weak spark on one of the cylinders. Make sure all the coils are seated correctly they do require a firm push before they click in place change spark plugs. How old is your battery ? Is it holding a good charge ?
   
 
Old 04-28-2012, 12:30 PM   #33
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With the bike cold, ( and side fairings off for easy access)
Set a bowl of water near the front close to the headers.
Crank up.... Dip your hand in the water and touch a finger to each
Header. The one that isn't hot enough to steam is not firing.
Make sense? :)
   
 
Old 04-28-2012, 01:13 PM   #34
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These are all great ideas...

However, the FSM has some very detailed instruction for testing the various components of the ignition system. I would suggest following these guidelines as well as some of the suggestions you have gotten here.

   
 
Old 04-28-2012, 01:24 PM   #35
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Quote:
I would say you have a weak spark on one of the cylinders. Make sure all the coils are seated correctly they do require a firm push before they click in place change spark plugs. How old is your battery ? Is it holding a good charge ?
just checked all the spark plugs. they are all a light brown. i did fire the bike back up and run it. it seems like it is the worst when it is at operating temperature. the battery is good i pulled it out the other day and put the volt meter on it it was like 12 something. but when i revved the bike up to like 6 or 7 thousand rpm black smoke would come out the exhaust. could it be that i need a power commander? maybe the air fuel the computer is sending is tooooooo rich at low rpm and it cleans up in the higher rpm? just the blipping of the throttle loads it up and causes the flame and sputter? just thinking out loud here
   
 
Old 04-28-2012, 01:27 PM   #36
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Quote:
With the bike cold, ( and side fairings off for easy access)
Set a bowl of water near the front close to the headers.
Crank up.... Dip your hand in the water and touch a finger to each
Header. The one that isn't hot enough to steam is not firing.
Make sense? :)
yes it does make sense but it only seems to run crappy at low rpm. once above 2 thousand rpm she runs like a top.. just like when driving it, it seems like if i snap the throttle and hold on it kind of sputters a split second then just takes off full boar.. i had my dad ride and i rode behind him when he gets on it i can smell fuel. guessing that it is too rich.. could a slip on make it run rich though?
   
 
Old 04-28-2012, 01:29 PM   #37
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i could make a new video of revving the bike higher instead of showing how it shoots flame and loading it up. if that may help anyone out... because when it is cold it seems to do fine. then when warmed up and just sitting there the idle will go up and down a little but thats when it does the fire stuff if you blip it..


i also didnt realize how rare the plugs are called three dealers and none of them had the plug.. :( may have to order them online then.

Last edited by 02redzx12r; 04-28-2012 at 01:32 PM.
   
 
Old 04-28-2012, 01:32 PM   #38
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Quote:
yes it does make sense but it only seems to run crappy at low rpm. once above 2 thousand rpm she runs like a top.. just like when driving it, it seems like if i snap the throttle and hold on it kind of sputters a split second then just takes off full boar.. i had my dad ride and i rode behind him when he gets on it i can smell fuel. guessing that it is too rich.. could a slip on make it run rich though?
Smelling gas don't always mean running rich. It could mean you are misfiring on a cylinder as well.

Quote:
i also didnt realize how rare the plugs are called three dealers and none of them had the plug.. :( may have to order them online then.
You can order/get the NGK CR9EKPA from just about any auto store ($10-14 each). You can also use the NGK CR9EIX. Some even use the CR9EK. The first is the OEM plug. From past discussions, I myself learned the EIX is a direct replacement, Iridium plug.

Last edited by my12r; 04-28-2012 at 01:53 PM.
   
 
Old 04-28-2012, 02:27 PM   #39
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Quote:
Smelling gas don't always mean running rich. It could mean you are misfiring on a cylinder as well.



You can order/get the NGK CR9EKPA from just about any auto store ($10-14 each). You can also use the NGK CR9EIX. Some even use the CR9EK. The first is the OEM plug. From past discussions, I myself learned the EIX is a direct replacement, Iridium plug.
but if it was misfiring on a cylinder then wouldnt it run bad throughout the whole rpm range?
   
 
Old 04-28-2012, 02:36 PM   #40
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I bought the OEM plugs at oriellys.... If they are that far north
it might be quicker and cheaper...
   
 
Old 04-28-2012, 02:39 PM   #41
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I'll assume you read the section on diagnostic codes and the owner/ dealer
mode .
   
 
Old 04-28-2012, 03:24 PM   #42
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Quote:
but if it was misfiring on a cylinder then wouldnt it run bad throughout the whole rpm range?
Nope. If it's a incomplete burn from weak spark...or a miss on every 10th fire....

The only way to rule out your ignition system is to test it. Not with water on the pipes, altho this is a great way to find a dead cylinder, but the way described in the FSM. You could have a weak stick coil. You could have a broken plug internally. You could have any number of things going on. There's steps to follow and not many shortcuts.

If your ignition system tests ok, you move on to fuel. There are tests for this in the book too. Check your air filters. Maybe you just have a rats nest in the air box from sitting so much....


Last edited by my12r; 04-28-2012 at 03:28 PM.
   
 
Old 04-28-2012, 03:25 PM   #43
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Quote:
I bought the OEM plugs at oriellys.... If they are that far north
it might be quicker and cheaper...
That's where I bought mine. $10 each. The stealer wanted $18 each. Phuc-a-dat noise....
   
 
Old 04-28-2012, 05:51 PM   #44
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Quote:
I bought the OEM plugs at oriellys.... If they are that far north
it might be quicker and cheaper...
we do have an oriellys.. but also the dealership had some cr9eix and a cr9ek i wasnt sure if those were compatible with the 12 or not so i did not end up getting them..
   
 
Old 04-28-2012, 05:55 PM   #45
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I'll assume you read the section on diagnostic codes and the owner/ dealer
mode .
i think i read that section.. but the fi light is not blinking so i dont know how to tell if there are codes
   
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