Hello guys. I'm new here, and new on a zx12 too - well actually about 9 mos.

My bike (A1 model) stopped running today while I was going about 60 mph. It just shut off and I saw the oil and the FI light going on.
Prior to this...about 2 minutes before, when I cranked it up, it was acting as if the battery was going dead (but my battery is fine, I checked it). It was barelly turning over. if I remember corectly, it did this a couple more times this past week.
I'm thinking it could be some sort of sensor? I thought I would ask you guys first before I take it to the doctor...maybe this is a quick fix?

Can someone help? Please...

Does it crank at full speed and just not start??

Check the stator/rectifier plug in the tail (3 wire plug) and make sure it's been repaired. If not and it's full of oil, this will be your starting point.

Even with Kawasakis botched recall repair, they can still fill with oil....mine did.

I don't know if it will crank at full speed because I couldn't get it to start in the few times I tried, but it cranks, turns over, it just won't start.

If it is full, does that mean I can clean it and dry it up, or just get a working one?

This happened to me when I first got my bike & it was self inflicted because I put on what I didn't know at the time was a bad Serial PC3 which fouled up two spark plugs once I replaced the spark plugs & removed the Serial PC3 fixed the problem. Do you have a power commander?? You may want to disconnect it

Yes I do, but it's been on the bike since 2009. The previous owner installed it.
I called him as well, and he told me he had a similar problem 2 years ago. Took his bike to the dealership and it turned out he had to replace the air sensor (bellow the gas tank).
But I'll look it up. Thanks.

There is many a thread on here for the stator fix. Check the plug and go from there.

As for the Power Commander, I didn't even think of that. Good call. Prop the tank up and unplug that and reconnect the factory plugs under there and see if she fires.

Based on your orginal story about the bike running & cutting off doing 60mph & getting the FI light is exactly what my PC did & I had a passenger on the freeway luckily when it cut off I was able to get it back started while coasting on the freeway!! I got it back home but barely when those PC's go ba d or start to go bad they will do strange stuff & cause other electronics on your bike to go bad. Check to see if the previous owner put on a serial vs. the USB version. The serial versions were horrible do a search on bad PC's I have my detailed story on here as well. It's rare for the USB ones to go bad but on some rare occasions some members have had issues. I brought the USB one & sent the serial back to Dynojet 3 times before I finally got a good replacement which I sold. The stator issue could be an issue but that had different symptoms my headlights went out & it wouldn't keep my battery charged. If it is the PC be on the look out for other gremlins. If its the serial version get rid of it & get the USB version if USB version send back to Dynojet for a replacement. I brought my USB 8 years ago knock on wood it's been bulletproof never lost the map even through the Stator issues. Save ur self that headache & have the wires soldered haven't had the issue since.

The PC will not make your motor kick over "like a flat battery"as you said in your first post,my12r has some advise to check about in the early style of bike!At least check the earth and positive connections as well.

Never mind..

if it turns over at full speed but will not start it could be a few different sensors. i spent 1000 $ at a shop and they could not find the problem. turned out to be a 50$ part. (crankshaft sensor). i was pissed!

OK, so I checked the stator/rectifier and it looked to be in good shape. I also bypassed the PC and that didn't help either.
Does anyone have any other suggestions?

Could it be the same problem (with the air sensor), the previous owner had?

I hate to keep giving the same suggestions to people, but really - your battery can check good & still not provide the power the 12's ECU is looking for... Before you spend really big money, you might try a new battery... I know it sounds kinda lame, but it happens as people start their riding seasons every year, and there's empirical data to suggest it does happen...

Battery stuff on a 12 is usually a PITA also, cuz the sadistic genius that designed the battery box had a real sense of humor... Hope this helps, & keep us posted so we can learn!!

And a even cheaper way to test if it is indeed the battery current causing an issue....try jump starting the bike.

If you have a battery charger you can do this easily. Connect it, turn it on, and hit the start button. A bikes current needs are far far less than a car, so you only need a few amps and off ya go. If the battery is falling on its face and causing it, the extra couple amps from the charger should cause it to fire.

OR...

You could go spend money on a new battery and see if that is or ain't the issue. I spose, you could always return the battery if its not...unless you buy a cheap lead/acid....

My $0.02 on that.

You could also measure the current draw on the existing battery as well with a multimeter.....not only voltage, but current (amps) as well. This can indicate a few things........but that's far too in depth at this point...