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Tire change/Engine noise

This is a discussion on Tire change/Engine noise within the ZX-12R forums, part of the Kawasaki Motorcycles category; Originally Posted by imburning Well we had a nice sunny 55 degree day today here in PA and I happened to be home from the ...


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Old 02-19-2012, 11:21 PM   #16
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From: sydney australia
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Quote:
Well we had a nice sunny 55 degree day today here in PA and I happened to be home from the weekend from college, so I figured it would be a good chance to get the old 12 out of hibernation and change the front tire to the new Michelle PR2 I got for Christmas. To make an incredibly long story short, essentially everything that could go wrong did, including the 12 falling off of the stand (must have still been sleepy ) . It did not fall very hard as I managed to catch it as it was falling but because of my position I couldnt hold it up. Now when it runs I notice a loud ticking coming from the top right side of the engine, when revved the ticking speeds up proportionately although it doesn't seem to get any louder. Any suggestions, or am I just paranoid?
To me it sounds like an exhaust leak from the header.Did the bike drop on the exhaust side?And can you hear the noise on a back off?

Last edited by maxumis; 02-19-2012 at 11:24 PM.
   
 
Old 02-20-2012, 12:41 AM   #17
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This procedure is only for automatic tensioners, but you should try a tension adjustment using whatever procedure your cam chain tensioner calls for. Hope it works for ya...
   
 
Old 02-20-2012, 07:59 AM   #18
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I would think the starter motor may stop on a valve spring wanting it to move it the opposite way?

Starting an engine and letting it run is another move that may cause less tension on the correct side.

Book procedure recommends you move past the spring tension, but here you have to find top dead center or move the crank to said position.

In a way, you can x-ray, meaning, see where your tension is all the time. Simply place the bike in gear, load the crank in such a way, you try to move the crank but do not. That means, if you look at your drive chain, you now see how tight the one side of the cam chain is, how loose the tensioner side is, by simply watching the drive chain mimic the same inside the engine. There is no need to move the crank around to some point. The point is to keep the chain tight and under pressure as you avoid the spring tension moving the chain. Besides, it's faster to do, quieter than the other 3 mentioned above.

Does it walk after 35 years of adjusting tensioners? JMO.
   
 
Old 03-08-2012, 08:30 PM   #19
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From: Harrisburg, PA
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I was able to get my bike to the shop today (Amped Powersports in Halifax, PA if anyone has heard of it). Did it ever run like crap, even worse than before. sounded terrible, almost like a cylinder missing although since I was down that road before I could tell it was different, there was next to no power (compared to normal), and couldn't give it much more than a little bit of throttle without things acting badly. Atleast it's at the shop now and in the hands of someone who knows what they're doing. They had given me a rough quote of $225-250 for a valve adjustment, so if it is anywhere near that ill be more than happy. I'll let you know the results/costs when I hear back from them and pick the bike up again next saturday. On a good note, I cut the stator connector out and crimped the wires together, here's some pics of the fried connector:

   
 
Old 03-08-2012, 11:21 PM   #20
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Quote:
I would think the starter motor may stop on a valve spring wanting it to move it the opposite way?

Starting an engine and letting it run is another move that may cause less tension on the correct side.
It works H.,what can I say?
   
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