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post #1 of 39 Old 11-01-2011, 08:28 PM Thread Starter
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fi light code 11

sat all summer while I did this. Replaced valve cover gasket, checked valves, checked plugs, cleaned everything, battery on tender the whole time. took out pc3 because it was the wrong model for my year (2000 A1) disassembled throttle cables to lube and clean. Took headers off, installed new exhaust gaskets, oil change (3.5 quarts. oil level is half in window),new oil filter, bmc filters (race). Now the FI light is on and fast idle lever does not do shit. It starts up rough, but was able to idle at 2K with idle screw when I adjusted tps to just above 2K after warm up. New coolant with distilled and 1 quart of 50/50 plus one bottle of water wetter. I figure a digital volt meter is in my future purchases. Ran smooth in April after removing pc3, before doing anything else. Any thoughts? Also dies after a blip of the throttle. last to note... 1 bar left on fuel indicator that is old fuel + a bit of sea foam. Probably just answered my own question.

This one bagat this one and that one begat that one and begat, begat, begat, and lo and behold someone said some shit and..... Just how retarded are you. I reckon I aint got no reason to kill nobody. hmm mmm.
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post #2 of 39 Old 11-02-2011, 12:53 AM
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Check the fault code against the manual, you probably not plugged something in or plugged something into the wrong plug....
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post #3 of 39 Old 11-02-2011, 01:04 AM
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11 Throttle sensor (ZX1200-B1/B2), main throttle sensor
(ZX1200-B3), malfunction, wiring open or short
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post #4 of 39 Old 11-02-2011, 01:22 PM
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Probably answered your own question. Dilute it with fresh gas. Here is what I read:

1. I removed the pc3. I assume that is connected to the TPS? Say yes, a wire goes there.
2. I of course had to move things around while I serviced the bike. I may have moved the TPS or removed its connector. Say I moved a TPS connector again. Even thought it is not related to the pc3, how can it be?
3. After all this related service, the code 11 for TPS came on. Say no, I rode the bike anyway, or I am here asking now. Say no, there was no code at the time. All of a sudden, she came on. I rode home and now tried it again. I see it idles fast and that is how I have been riding it.

There are 3 obvious wire problems that cause a code:
A. Connector not connected. Obviously, it is connected.
B. Wire out of connector. Does it look like one is out anywhere? Count this one out, obviously.
C. Short to ground. This is where the road stops. If it is not one of these 3, say this one looks sort of obvious. It says; I may not have a male/female connection. I may be short to ground is the TPS. I may be out of spec and I will send a code stating so is where is that ohm meter? That meter says I throw parts at it or I know the TPS is in spec. I replace the TPS and the code is still there? I needed a spec number or I will breakout, call me junk.
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post #5 of 39 Old 11-02-2011, 03:21 PM
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i know the theory of the 2k idle to set your timing. me personally. i get a multi meter and set it at 1.085. manual says 1.084 to 1.086. but your code 11 is just some wire shorting somewhere nothing major but its probably gonna be one of them irritating fixes. also if it turns out to be your tps.pm me i got one round here somewhere. i just shoot it to ya
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post #6 of 39 Old 11-03-2011, 03:14 AM
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There are 2 sensors in the vicinity of the TPS that have the same plug, if they are plugged into the wrong sensor, the TPS will be 'blown'.

I'll check later today, which plug goes into which sensor ( wire colour codes etc.)

Thanx Dave.


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post #7 of 39 Old 11-03-2011, 09:31 AM
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i cant seem to figure out which 2 sensors dave is talkn bout here. the atmospheric and air temp? if so both those sensors are exactly the same just 2 dif places
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post #8 of 39 Old 11-03-2011, 11:27 AM
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i cant seem to figure out which 2 sensors dave is talkn bout here. the atmospheric and air temp? if so both those sensors are exactly the same just 2 dif places
No, not air temp. You had the 1atmo correct. The other matching one is the IAP [intake air pressure] sensor. Water runs on water temp. Air temp runs on air temp. The other two run on air pressure/vacuum switching.
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post #9 of 39 Old 11-03-2011, 12:30 PM
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only sensors that are near my tps is one right above tps one at rear of bike on clutch side. air temp i know is in air box. but its not 2 of them near the tps its only one.other than the water temp sensor and i know the water temp sensor is where thesensors gets there reading from
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post #10 of 39 Old 11-04-2011, 07:27 AM Thread Starter
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I've checked all connections, seems to be good. All I can think of is what I have changed. A few years back I took out the Kleen air system. When I did that I put silicon in the end of the central vac line like here. [IMG][/IMG]

the only thing i did different is cap it off with this. Because I could blow air through the original tube that had dried silicon in the end of it. [IMG][/IMG]
I also saw a little machined hole in the frame, up close to where the steering column is. I filled that with a little JB weld putty. Thanks for all your input guys, I was just wondering that was/is the correct procedure for capping the vac lines after the removal.

This one bagat this one and that one begat that one and begat, begat, begat, and lo and behold someone said some shit and..... Just how retarded are you. I reckon I aint got no reason to kill nobody. hmm mmm.
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post #11 of 39 Old 11-04-2011, 09:26 AM
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I filled that with a little JB weld putty.
Was that hole for condensation at the neck? What did you plug up at the frame?

Quote:
... I was just wondering that was/is the correct procedure for capping the vac lines after the removal.
Rubber cork. Golf tees. Wine corks. Rubber over boot like your photo. The idea behind plugging is to know the engine needs to vent as does the tank. Everything else, close it down, meaning, not to much more needs to vent to atmosphere.
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post #12 of 39 Old 11-04-2011, 09:47 AM Thread Starter
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Well, while looking at Dave Potter's guide to removing the kleen air system I see that I have the tps sensor plug switched with the atmospheric sensor. I hope I havnt killed it.

This one bagat this one and that one begat that one and begat, begat, begat, and lo and behold someone said some shit and..... Just how retarded are you. I reckon I aint got no reason to kill nobody. hmm mmm.
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post #13 of 39 Old 11-04-2011, 10:29 AM Thread Starter
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Now I get error code 12

This one bagat this one and that one begat that one and begat, begat, begat, and lo and behold someone said some shit and..... Just how retarded are you. I reckon I aint got no reason to kill nobody. hmm mmm.
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post #14 of 39 Old 11-04-2011, 11:01 AM
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code 12 is inlet air pressure sensor malfunction. silicone is a no no anywhere on my bike as a rule. but get some block offs and get rid of all that smog crap. but plug it all up right and put a multi meter on sensors and check readings. if any are out of whack then you will more than likely find issue. if you do not have a repair manual start new topic and ask for one. its a link somewhere on the forum for one. or some of the guys will tell you where its at. dont try and do it with a quick fix of any kind. cause if you short change your bike she will short change you when you least want it to
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post #15 of 39 Old 11-04-2011, 01:09 PM Thread Starter
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Ive had muzzy block off plates for a while now. I siliconed the end of the vacuum line when I got the plates. I checked it and I could blow through the hose.... It had a tiny hole, so it was probably never sealed. I replaced the line with the pvc cap on the above photo.

This one bagat this one and that one begat that one and begat, begat, begat, and lo and behold someone said some shit and..... Just how retarded are you. I reckon I aint got no reason to kill nobody. hmm mmm.
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