Blow my clutch several months ago, and having major issues now. I've read several posts on the site, and mine was the same, not going fast, yet, in second or third gear, moving about 60 MPH, clutch blows, and it looked like a bomb went off. It broke Clutch and Friction Plates, broke the Clutch Basket and cracked the Clutch Cover. The good thing was no engine or transmission damage.

My mechanic bought all of the parts and he said he was buying only OEM parts, so I was fine with that. I asked him about Barnett or Muzzy clutch replacement parts, by he stated, since I don't race not to go anything other than stock, so I said OK.

The first time the clutch was replaced they dynoed the bike and said it was ready. I got on the bike and could not ride it anywhere. I couldn't find Neutral, when the bike was in first or second gears, the bike was super jumpy, and when the Clutch Lever was engaged, the bike would pull.

So, the second time the clutch was replaced, it road fine, until the bike gets to it regular temp, which you all know doesn't take long on the 2000 ZX12R. Once the built some heat, I couldn't find Neutral, when the Clutch Lever was engaged, the bike would pull, and now its hard to change gears.

So, the the third time, they have replaced, the Clutch Basket, Clutch Plate, Clutch and Friction Plates, Springs, Rod Clutch Release,and a Clutch Release. So my mechanic calls me and tell me he thought he had fixed the issue, he took the bike for a 10 mile ride and it rode fine, until he got back to the shop, and the same issues started again. So last week, I called he and told him that he and I were going to break down the clutch and put it back in together.

Not like I'm a motorcycle tech, but I wanted to see this for myself and I thought I could help troubleshoot the issue. First thing he takes the Clutch Cover off, the Clutch Bolt, and the Springs. He then takes out a set of Clutch and Friction Plates, and he take out a Washers and a Clutch Spring. I look at the washer and spring and told him that is not the configuration for a 2000 ZX12R that is the configuration for a 2002.

He stated that there are two clutch setup for the 2000 and this is a valid configuration. I have only seen one setup, so I now know the plates are for a 2002 clutch. The next thing I noticed was the plates had no oil on them at all, completely dry. So I asked he, you rode this bike for almost 10 miles a few day ago, and he stated, Yes, so I ask why are the plates dry, How does the plates get oil. The stated they should get oils from the Clutch Hub, but the hub was completely dry also, so we took the rest of the clutch to see if the bearing had oil and it did have fresh oil on it. So, now he ordered a 2002 Clutch Hub.

Personally, I think he ordered a 2002 Clutch Basket and the issues stem from there. I know what some of you are thinking, but this guy is normally a good mechanic, well known all over the south and east coast, a Kawasaki Road Racer, and is Kawasaki Certified.

So for you that have some clutch knowledge will the 2000 ZX12R work if the clutch configuration is setup like a 2002?

give me a call,, im up late tonight 718 314 9292 Vic
just so you know all the clutches and related parts are all interchangeable...
and THE most important thing when it comes to these 12 clutches is the stack height!
im sure i can help over the phone ,, at least more than your mechanic has so far!

Thanks Wylde,

I will give you a call between 9:30 to 10:00PM.

hope i was able to help my man,, keep us up to speed on the project!

You gave me some great info about the clutch and clutch setup, but I still have the issue. Now I know we have a new clutch basket, clutch plate, clutch hub(put a few very small holes in to release oil), clutch and friction plates, clutch release rod, and clutch release.

Caesar got the bike together today, rode it about 15 to 18 miles, though is was fixed until he back to the shop, went he tried to put the bike in neutral, could not fine neutral, then it starting dragging. Took the clutch apart and everything is getting oil now, clutch release rod, clutch hub and clutch plates all had some oil, compared to being dry before.

The stack is 57.56, I think the max is 57.60. We are ordering a few clutch plates in sizes smaller than 2.0 and 1.6 to see if that may help.

Any tricks up your sleeve?

shit you are right where you need to be with the stack,, you definatley want to be on the high side of the spec, there is a different problem,,, also did you try coming out at the free play to see if you could get it to disengage fully? did he say if it was slipping or anything.. keep us advised! personally i think your problem is at the puller shaft,, or the free play adjustment,, provided all else was done proper.. and the steels where put in sharp end out..

Yea, adjusted the free play to a nickel, but the moment bike get hot, you can't find neutral, there is no free play and it doesn't adjust, it stays tight. I think it at the puller shaft also, since the clutch is getting oil now. Everything is installed properly.

Its kicking our butts.

does it look like the pic i sent you @ 60 degrees,, when you slip it inside the clutch cover,, you have to rotate it and it is a little tricky sometimes to get it seated correctly.. i would double check the shaft placement. inspect the two fingers on it that grab the pin that releases the pressure plate also,, if there is any abnormal wear or anything that looks wrong that is gonna be the culprit!

Hey Wylde,

Ok, my mechanic has been full of crap for months, he’s been telling me that we have “Stock Kawasaki” parts, and I found out different. He ended up talking to a friend of his at Kawasaki somewhere in NY, and he told him basically the same info you gave me. His friend said everything is good with the six very small holes in the Clutch Hub, which was the workaround for the 2000 Clutch Oil Issue.

So his friend must have asked him about the parts, and he finds the plates aren’t Kawasaki but EBC. He must have told him that’s the issue, and to take the EBC plates out and replace them with True Stock Kawasaki plates.

Apparently, many mechanics call EBS Stock Replacements, and will say they are using Stock Parts when they actually are not. I test rode the bike on Saturday, and she rode Grreeeat. So, before I left I asked him what was the last thing you did, to make everything work. He had this look on his face like of discuss, and he stalled from telling me for a few minutes, than stated that he will not have this as a issue in the future, because he know the only use Kawasaki Parts in the clutch. He started the EBS works on thousands of bike he has worked on, but it will not work in a 12.

I look at him and said, but I told you in the beginning that everyone stated to use Muzzy, Kawasaki or Barrnett, and I know you don’t like Barnett, so I wanted Muzzy or Kawasaki.

So I haven’t have my bike in months because my mechanic would not listen or thought he knew more, and mainly, he was cutting corners to cut cost, but I don’t know why, because it cost him more, than what I paid.

So I still have to wait a few more days to ride, I have to wait on him to bring me a new battery on Thursday or Friday, because they let my last new battery cells drain were it won’t hold a charge now.

I did notice one thing, my gas mileage was awesome, with full Muzzy Exhaust and PCIII, I normally got 115 to 130 miles to a tank, depending on the map, but the current map about 115. On Saturday, I rode the bike from the shop to my home about 55 miles and the fuels gauge only moved two bars. I cruised about 90 to 100, only pull the throttle in a few places. It looks like I might get 15o miles or better to a tank of gas.

Again, Thanks for your help.

I had a mechanic tell my my computer was fried on my jeep... I told him it was a sensor. They said, nope... I told him... "Please, change that sensor, I will pay for it" their response was "We will not just change parts here", I said "Even if I'm asking you to?"... "No".

I showed up with a buddy and trailer took it to another shop that knows jeep, change the $20 sensor, and it started right up.

I should have just changed the part myself, as I do most of the work myself. But you can't trust people...

next time you will be doing it yourself my brother! too easy not to!
OEM is the way with HD springs and maybe a hub from 02 -UP and definately a basket when finances allow.. glad you will be up and runnin soon.

fyi, Muzzy Parts ARE oem kawi parts. kawi makes a 1.4, 1.6 and 2.0 steel plate. the 12 came with the 1.6s stock. the only other brand other than OEM or "Muzzy" that I would consider is the Cycle Concepts drag pak. I may try one this season, I hear good results from other racers

yea they seem to like em on Psychobike boards and those guys would know huh!

not enough oil in clutch pack? *how to fix*

so what is better a 02 hub or muzzzy hub

the hub muzzy is drilling holes in and then selling in their kits is the oem 02+ hub

So you're saying if I got a stock hub from an '02+ it would be the same as a $400 billet basket from muzzy?

the basket(refereed to as clutch housing in the manual) is different than the hub
hub is the inner one that steel plates hook onto, basket is the bigger outer one (with gears at the back of it) friction plates hook onto. if i'm not mistaking the backet is driven by engine and the hub is connected to tranny
if you buy a muzzy clutch kit you will only be getting a drilled hub and plates(friction and steel) and 3 springs and a modified bushing.

So Jay, if YOU knew what the problem was with your Jeep, why didn't YOU fix it yourself right from the get-go?

I get tired of hearing these bitch-fests about mechanics.

Directly to this post, Jaydee - do you really believe the mechanic was trying to skim you for a few bucks by installing a "cheaper" clutch pack? FYI - Barnett is a solid MFG and I would not hesitate to run their stuff in my bike.

All I am hearing here is blah, blah, blah with no concrete evidence about what the true problem is.

Think about it.

To replace the part you have to lower the transmission... It is at the 11 o'clock position on the bell housing. I can do it without a lift, but it is easier to pay a mechanic to do the job.

Second... I broke down on the road, and my AAA would only tow the nearest AAA service center. They required a diagnostic fee, which would be put towards the work. So I was forced into it, as I don't have my own tow service.

I have seen good mechanics, but they are getting few and far between. Now they simply replace parts as a manual tells them too. Gone is the day of mechanics actually knowing what the part does and why...

I don't understand why you think if I pay for work to be done, and when they tell me I have to replace the computer $1k (for just the part), when it really is a $30 sensor, you can somehow think that it is my fault. I would have spent the non refundable money, and the jeep would have still not run. Sometimes a mechanic should listen to the owner, as they are the ones who drive it daily.

It is simple, as they had the factory service manual as I do, replacing the computer is WAY further down the line of testing then the Crankshaft Position Sensor, which exhibits the signs of a faulty computer because when it fails it can do so without throwing a code. So they plugged into the ODBII port, and since it threw no codes, they said... Oh... the computer is bad. Why do they even charge a diagnostic fee if they don't actually diagnose?

After I told them that it was the CPS and I would pay for them to replace the part, they told me no, they would not replace the part even if I paid for it... I had to replace the computer, or I was welcome to pay the $100 diagnostic fee and tow the jeep away... So I did, got a different shop to replace it (so I would have proof via a receipt) and brought the receipt back for a refund. After I showed the manager the receipt, and he talked to the mechanic (it was the head mechanic) he had enough proof that I was not in the wrong, and gave me a full refund.

So the shop manager thought I was correct, but you think I'm in the wrong... Nice.

just to add without reading Jays post,, YES there are scumbag mechanics (or wanabee mechanics) out there that try and WILL take advantage of people who dont know better,, and there are the MORONS that think they are Mechanics that are nothing but glorified parts changers at best,, i think this dude that messed with his clutch was a Moron type that was trying to save money so he could make more himself! which puts him in the REAL moron category. next time dont let these jerk offs talk you into anything and tie up the bike for god knows how long,, make a call to someone who will offer their time to walk you thru it or offers some pointers and all will be good,,, i cant stand dealerships or bullshit shops,, most of the time they are incompetant! just my .03!

Okay Jay, those are some tidbit's I apparently did not get from your first post. ;-)

You had the skill, knowledge and ability to diagnose the problem but because of the access chose to have a shop do the work.

Taking that into account I agree with your posture in this situation.

no hard feelings