I just replaced the sparks on my 2001 12R - I'd previously read alot about some people finding it easy and others finding it impossible. I didn't think it was easy, but then again I'm only capable of relatively easy stuff on my 12R (ie oil change, filter clean, pilot jet mot, brake service etc etc).

I thought I'd put together this little guide for novices like me that want to attempt it. In all, it took me about 30 minutes per spark. I didn't mess about - I removed the fairing, ram air covers, tank cover, seats and coolant expansion tank. It can be done without removing some of these, but it will be alot easier if you just get them out of your way. The expansion tank can just be unscrewed and left to dangle on the pipes. Don't bother removing it completely.

First of all, you will need the special angled tool from the 12R's tool kit. The idea behind this tool is that the bigger end goes down the spark plug tube and locks onto the spark plug, whilst the smaller end is for a spanner or socket set to lock onto. It has to bend in the middle to enable you to get it into the spark tube as the clearance above is not enough to get it in otherwise. Look into the bigger end of the tool and you will see a rubber washer that grips onto the spark plug once it has been unscrewed (else you'd never actually get it out of the tube).

Second, obviously get hold of the spark plugs first before attempting the job - I've read conflicting reports about which spark plugs are the correct ones. I still dont know what's right and what's wrong, but I am going to tell you what I found out. First of all, I got hold of the NGK CR9EK sparks as referred to in the manual but was surprised when they looked a little different from the sparks that were already in the bike - the difference was at the top of the spark plug where it latches onto the stick coil and consequently, the stick coil wouldn't fit on properly. Someone else suggested that the CR9EIX were the way to go and I was relieved to find that these had the same upper connection as my existing sparks. You can see the difference between the two at the following internet locations NGK.com - Application Search Results and CR9EKB - NGK PLUGS "C" by chi town choppers , inc .

The CR9EIX sparks work like a charm in my bike, but I suspect they have a smaller lifespan because they are not multiground sparks like the ones that came out (I guess that this lenghtens the life of the gap, but I'm not really sure). In summary, I can tell you that the CR9EIX work great in my bike and fit inside the Denso stick coils very securely - but I can't tell you how long they will continue to work for so you might want to check it out a bit more yourself.

As some people have said, removing the plastic and rubber covers will make your life easier to get the job done, but I'd recommend you leave them there because they are effectively stopping dirt, moisture and other sh*t getting down the side of the stick coil where it will end up in the top of your engine the minute you take the spark plug out. I noticed moisture on the side of one of my stick coils and (more concerningly) some oil on another (that's a differnent story).

OK, so on with the procedure. Looking in at the top of the engine you will see the top of the stick coils coming out of the top. These stick coils have 'Denso" written on the top of them. Before doing anything else, you'll have to pull the 2-wire connector off of the side. It has a little plastic locking tooth on it so you have to press down on the tooth whilst pushing the connector towards the back of the bike. Mine were relatively easy to get off, but I found a small flat blade screw driver made things easier - it was posible to use the screwdriver to press down on the release catch at the same time as pushing it backwards and off.

After this you need to get the coil sticks out - the is the single hardest thing to do in this job (at least it was with my bike). Some people have reported that their coil sticks came off easy, well I can tell you that mine were stuck on like a bitch. I'm a little suspicious that some of the folks that can get their stick coils off easy are using the sparks with the different interface type (as described above) which means that the denso stick coils just sit on top of it, rather than gripping on to it. I imagine this will work fine as these high voltages dont need a perfect electrical connection to work - but, I just prefer a solid mechanical connection as the basis of a good, reliable electrical connection.

The key to getting the stick coils off is to use a large flat blade screw driver and put it under the connector seat (towards the back of the bike) that sticks out of the side of the coil and then twist the flat-blade to pop the coil off. When you pop off the first coil you instantly realise from the force required that there was no way you were ever going to do it by hand like other people have said they do (like I say, this might be down to the different types of spark plug top). One thing that I noticed is that the plastic cover for the rubber mat has a neat-feature - a little channel under it that allows you to get a flat-blade screwdriver to the middle sparks by putting the screw driver under the piece of the plastic cover that sits in-between the middle and outer sparks (on both sides). After that, you can wrestle out the stick coil. If you do the ones at the outside first you will see how long the stick coil actually is (about 12 cm by memory). The last 4 to 5 CM is rubber and can bend, which is a godsend when you do the ones in the middle (if it was 12cm of plastic, it simply wouldn't be able to come out).

OK, the most difficult bit is done. Using the angled tool, you put it into the spark tube and push it as far down as you can by hand. Start turning it anti-clockwise by hand until it locks in position - thus the tool is located. You can then use a wrench or socket set to loosen the first part of the spark off (it shouldn't take much force if the person who installed the sparks used the correct torque). You should then be able to unscrew the rest of it by hand (depending on the size of your hands!). After many, many turns you'll eventually notice it suddenly becomes easier because the spark has come out of the threads. You then pull the tool out and hey presto, there's the spark being held by the tool's rubber washer.

Replacement is just the reverse, but it's a good idea to add a little grease to the spark threads before putting them in and spray the stick coil outers with a silicone grease or WD40 before putting them back in the spark tube. The two outer sparks are obviously easier than the inner ones - but you have to wrestle with everything throughout the entire job because it is just so tight. This is why it takes so long.

I'm no idiot, but I also am not capable of doing complex stuff on a bike. For my level of expertise, this was a reasonably difficult job the first time around. Like everything though, having done it once I think I would find it quite easy the next time I do it.

Hope this helps someone,
Stuart.

sweet writeup man, i'm about to tackle this myself on saturday. although i don't have the damn tool for the plugs so i'm guessing i'm gonna have a little more fun.

You're welcome mate - I've just been speaking to the a motorbike mechanical guru who has worked on dozens of 12Rs and he says the CR9EIX spark that I used is the way to go. In his experience, it outperforms the stock platinum plugs and is actually cheaper (because the stock plugs are special one-offs for the 12R).

Not sure I would want to attempt the job without the angled spark plug tool - I can't see how it could be done without an articulated tool of some-sort.

Hi,

Just replaced my plugs today with CR9EIX, better than standard in my opinion.
Nice guide by the way...;). I do recommend that you replace the rubber cover because it keeps your coils /caps in good condition. The only thing that i thought was a pain was the throttle cables, so i just removed them out of the way, Managed to do the whole job in 40 mins...:).

Glad to be of help - I agree, the CR9EIX do seem better but then again, that could be the simply the fact that they are new. Who cares, it's just nice when you do a job that makes a noticeable improvement to the bikes performance.

Stuart - Thanks for the detailed report, Sir!! ;);)

I think many here will benefit from this!!

Thanks for the write up especially the part about where to place the screwdriver under the coil. It made the job a piece of cake (along with the factory tool).

Hey does anyone have a picture of the angled tool used to change the sparks?! Great write up stube40!!!!!!!

hope these pics work and help.....[IMG][/IMG] sorry about the picture qualitity...

Glad to be of service folks!

I'm just sorry that I couldn't back up the details with some photos, I wasn't organised enough during the job (I was too busy concentrating on not messing it up!!).

Stuart.

Man thanks for the picture. I have that tool.

Thanks!!!!!!

this was a great post thanks

I am such a dope, I did not read this thread all the way to find out about CR9EIX, I went around (like a fool) looking for the stock plugs and almost did not get them except for one Kawasaki dealer that quoted me $10.30 each and when I got there the price was $16 each.....got me so upset after riding all the way out there but the manager of the parts counter sold them to me for what I was quoted on the phone, that was nice of her. But still CR9EIX is cheaper than the stock plugs.............is there a place on this Forum under ZX12R where we can all go to check on replacement/cross reference parts instead of searching for threads after threads????? If not maybe we should have one??????

That will make it easier for most of us...can someone mention this to the person in charge of this Forum....please!

Superb piece of advice mate, did mine today and without reading your guide first would not have finished in the 3 hours it took me (and saved paying the fat dealers a fortune)
Thanks for your help Stube40
P.S.
The CR9EIX plugs work a treat.

great write up helped alot
but stock tool kit not needed 2 swivels & a 5/8 sparkplug socket with a swivel made on it
works great

Anyone use the CR8EIX Plugs. The guy at the dealership recommended them to me as a replacement for the CR9EIX plugs. Said the only difference was that the CR8EIX plugs run hotter than the CR9EIX. Said they would perform better with the aftermarket Mods like Pipe and PC3.

Anyone else running them?