stator connector and no headligths fix ** NEW PICS ** - Page 2 - Kawasaki Forum :: KawasakiWorld.com
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post #16 of 216 Old 09-05-2006, 03:39 PM
VOZ
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i went out and picked up lugs...

mine has no oil, but upon further inspection.. it looks burnt {has not failed} i cannot pull the connector apart...

will get solder iron from work and try and knock it out thursday!


all those {3} yellow wires - it does not make a difference which with which correct?
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post #17 of 216 Old 09-05-2006, 04:25 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VOZ
all those {3} yellow wires - it does not make a difference which with which correct?
Those wires are 3 phases AC voltage, no difference in wich order you solder them together.

Thanks for making this thread a sticky, i am sure it will help many of us save time and money.
:wink:
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post #18 of 216 Old 09-06-2006, 08:15 PM
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:D Ok,
Relays showed up today. Place is based in los Angeles and showed up in less than 24 hours! Place is www.onlinecomponents.com . Was helped by a real nice guy named Ike. Relay replaced,lights back up-WOOHOO!
Also did the stator connector,and good thing too as the terminal that has the headlight trigger wire on it was fried and I couldn't get my connector apart either. At least I now know what blew the relay!
Oh,by the way,the relay cost $2.10USD!
I figure that if I had taken it to the dealer I would have been looking at a $400.00 bill. Probably wouldn't have fixed it either ,'cause when I hit up the head mechanic at the local dealer about my problem,he said to check the handlebar switch!

2007 El Mirage APS-G 1350 Class points leader.
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post #19 of 216 Old 09-07-2006, 10:37 AM
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Heres www.onlinecomponents.com 's part# for the relay;GA-1C-12D. His manufacturer is MEC. There is a very minute difference in the external dimension of the relay body,but it doesn't interfere with the J-box cover and the pin-outs are exactly where they should be.
I am surprised that Kawi uses these particular relays. While searching the Net for these things,I got to read several application guides and (in my opinion)these things aren't suited to an automotive environment. Almost every app I saw was as a control device in some kind of stationary equipment such as railroad signalling,electric motor control and elevators.
But then again,Kawi did put a 100hp clutch in a 170hp motorcycle

2007 El Mirage APS-G 1350 Class points leader.
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post #20 of 216 Old 09-08-2006, 04:00 AM
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Thanks RM

- Matt

'02 ZX-12R
'05 Mini Chopper
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post #21 of 216 Old 09-29-2006, 06:23 AM
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After removing my headlights for Bonneville I noticed that when I came back home and plugged in my headlights they didn't work! I have a hunch that running high RPM w/out the headlights plugged in may have caused this problem (the stator issue).

So besides the relay, which is a 12V 10A relay that should be able to get from most electronics stores, I would need a de-soldering iron and a soldering iron? I already have a soldering iron....just want to make sure I'm doing this right as it looks easy but I HATE electrical work!

A.
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post #22 of 216 Old 09-29-2006, 12:12 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shiphteey

So besides the relay, which is a 12V 10A relay that should be able to get from most electronics stores, I would need a de-soldering iron and a soldering iron? I already have a soldering iron....just want to make sure I'm doing this right as it looks easy but I HATE electrical work!

A.
Try this simple test to be sure it is that small relay, turn ignition on, take a piece of wire and jump the red with a white stripe wire with the blue with a yellow stripe wire on the j-box (under the ashtray), your head lights should come on, if they do remove the jumper, if they turn back off then the small relay in the j-box is cooked, if they don't turn on at all then something is wrong somewhere else (fuses, connectors, relays).

Good luck !
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post #23 of 216 Old 09-29-2006, 12:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zixxer12r
Quote:
Originally Posted by shiphteey

So besides the relay, which is a 12V 10A relay that should be able to get from most electronics stores, I would need a de-soldering iron and a soldering iron? I already have a soldering iron....just want to make sure I'm doing this right as it looks easy but I HATE electrical work!

A.
Try this simple test to be sure it is that small relay, turn ignition on, take a piece of wire and jump the red with a white stripe wire with the blue with a yellow stripe wire on the j-box (under the ashtray), your head lights should come on, if they do remove the jumper, if they turn back off then the small relay in the j-box is cooked, if they don't turn on at all then something is wrong somewhere else (fuses, connectors, relays).

Good luck !
To clarify:

Should we remove the modular connector and just jump those two wires out or ??

Shane
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post #24 of 216 Old 09-29-2006, 01:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zixxer12r
Quote:
Originally Posted by VOZ
all those {3} yellow wires - it does not make a difference which with which correct?
Those wires are 3 phases AC voltage, no difference in wich order you solder them together.

Thanks for making this thread a sticky, i am sure it will help many of us save time and money.
:wink:
How are we getting 3 phase AC voltage on a DC system?

Shane
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post #25 of 216 Old 09-29-2006, 05:37 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shane661

To clarify:

Should we remove the modular connector and just jump those two wires out or ??
No leave the j-box connected. Just remove the fake gas tank for a better acces to the j-box.

The 3 phases ac voltage comes from the alternator (also called stator) located on the left side of the engine at the end of the crankshaft. That 3 phases ac voltage is rectified with the rectifier module located just beside the stator connector behind the driver seat. Once rectified you get your dc voltage wich will charge your battery.
Hope this clears some of your questions.
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post #26 of 216 Old 09-30-2006, 04:49 AM
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Bingo! That is the problem!

Is that relay to insure that the lights only operate when the bike is running? Is it OK to jump that out until we track down another relay?

Thanks for the info man, saved some $$!

Shane
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post #27 of 216 Old 09-30-2006, 05:21 AM
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You da man Shane! I owe you for that.....any time you need a nitrous bottle you can always borrow mine...hell I have a couple gauges now too...haha

A.
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post #28 of 216 Old 09-30-2006, 05:52 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shane661
Bingo! That is the problem!

Is that relay to insure that the lights only operate when the bike is running? Is it OK to jump that out until we track down another relay?

Thanks for the info man, saved some $$!
Hey my pleasure bud ! I looked at the drawings carefuly and i see no problem to leave the jumper there, the only thing is that the main headlights relay coil won't be fused, if you do this for a short therm temporary repair then it's ok, if you do it for long therm then you should put an inline fuse on your jumper wire.
That relay is for the lights to not operate when you turn ignition on until the bike is started, the ligths will remain on until you turn ignition off once the bike has started. :wink:
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post #29 of 216 Old 09-30-2006, 06:06 AM
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zixxer, tank you mang. You just ensured that I'd be able to not only run my bike @ the strip next weekend BUT ensured some SERIOUS ASS WHOOPING shane is gonna get TO AND FROM the strip....

....camera will be rolling :twisted:

A.
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post #30 of 216 Old 10-01-2006, 03:20 PM
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I just removed my connector (with some help). The thing was full of oil, but came apart just fine. Got zapped with a dremel, wires soldered, wrapped and tucked away.

Thanks for all the info and pics gents!!!
:D
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