Well did the wire fix last year before my MotoGP trip last summer as the connector had oil for the second time after the mother Kaw "fix". I have since replaced the Junction box as the relay fried (thank god for ebay) and now the jbox lasted 2 days and fried again. In addition I have had the connector at the right headlight fuse to the bulb now twice and fortunately found a connector to wire in instead of a whole new harness. so here I sit with a problem that "doesn't exist" in the words of Kawasaki Canada. 82000km on the bike and I'm still in love but damn this sucks.
For those that were able to get the stator/ regulator/ rectifier/ replaced what hoops language wise did your dealer jump through to get it done?

The guy (my friend) who first owned the bike i got..... had it done about 2 weeks after he bought it. He didnt have any problems but.....i had to change it again last year because the as stated "mother Kaw" fix ran amuck again. Plus i didnt want the local dealer working on my bike since it would have been there God knows how long. So i ordered one (stator) from GDLcycles.com and put it on my self. I didnt do the "eliminating of the connectors" but i feel i should have. So far i haven had any problems with oil wicking up. Think i will take my old stator and prepare as per previous posts as a stand by if this replacement acts up.

Hi Zixxer as the photos are still down on the page can you tell me which relay is the one you replace, the left or the right when you are looking down at the relays with them on the upper left side. PM sent but it's still hung up in my outbox.

I'm looking at an '03 w/24K mi.....are these affected as well?

I just did mine, the one on the right. :D

Does anyone have the pics that went with the stator/headlight fix sticky post?'

My bike finally fell victim to the oil leak and headlight gremlin, ( after 93K kms!), after returning from Philip Island track ride days about a week ago.

I first noticed the oil onto rear wheel, have re-siliconed the cableing from the alternator end, havn't been able to get apart the connectors under rear seat to check for oil there yet but have stopped further oil from leaking onto the wheel

Now the headlights won't work And of course while riding home in the near dark after work.

I have read all the thread on the fix, and looked at the J box, but my brain works best with pretty pictures

Can anyone help??

Cheers,

Don.

Finally got the stator connector apart under the seat, had to crack it open, the insides were cooked in oil :shock:

I've cleaned the terminals/connections, and will sort out how to fix it all up again, but still need pics of J box headlight relay to fix that too!!

Cheers,

Don.

Have jumped wires at J box to get lights to work (at least I now know it is the J box relay buggered!). This will get me to work today as a temporary fix.

Cheers,

Don.

Well, I finally tracked down a relay on my 4th try at various electronic stores

Got home, desoldered the knackered relay - removed it - replaced with new!, Put all back together again (thinks to myself "I AM MASTER OF MY OWN UNIVERSE!!!), having never done this sort of thing before.

Turn on key - F1 LIGHT, ENGINE NO START - but the lights came on ( now I'm thinking "YOU DUMB BUGGA" )

Pulled everything apart again, tried to look intelligently at the J box as it lay naked before me, put it all back together again, - It works (once again "MASTER OF MY OWN UNIVERSE!!!)

Thanks again to zixxer12r for starting this fix and others who sent me PM's to give advice on relay type etc.

Cheers,

Don (M.O.M.O.U.)

where did you end up buying the relay so other Aussies will know?

Bluedraco, I bought it at AZtronics here in Adelaide, when I first rang them up to see if they had it in, the bloke told me to look on the www.altronics.com.au site to check if it would be in stock.

I didn't find it on there, at least I couldn't see it :roll: , so I took a picture of the one zixxer12r had posted to show them, and they matched the one up with what they had in stock on the shelves.

Hope this helps,

Don (M.O.M.O.U.)

So it's nice and sunny here in Nova Scotia (still snow on the ground though) and I though I'd pop into the shed to check my connectors.

There was no oil visible on the wires or around the foam or in the tail section but when I unplugged it some oil leaked out, less than a teaspoon, but enough!

My headlights and everything still work so I assume I am alright with just splicing the wires as mentioned?

1-With the oil in there would it have affected my stator or charging system at all. It was putting out correct voltage when tested with a meter, bike running, but my battery when tits up in the fall and the bike wouldn't start one day.

2- After the fix oil will still seep up there will it not? Will it drip down on my tire?

Hi, first if nothing blew up in smoke then everything should be ok.
I suggest you to get the kind of heat shrink tubbing that is much thicker, it almost looks like a straw, that kind of shrink gives a better seal around the splice and you will probably never see a drop of oil around there anymore.
For you battery you should get a battery tender, don't know why but zx12 are very hard on batteries when left unused for over a week. I got an intelligent charger at canadian tire 40$ on special and it saved me a 60$ battery because the charger has a desulfatation mode (don't know if it's the right therm in english). Everytime the bike comes in the garage, i hook it up to the charger with a special plug i made and i never had any problem since then.

Good luck !

Yes.

What about an '05 with 7300 mi. There are no recalls, or work listed on the Kawi website.

Hey,I ran into a little problem removing my bent subframe. The 3 wires going to the rectifier pass through a hole in the subframe. One small problem....the hole is too small for the rectifier to pass through! Had to undo all my nicely soldered and shrink wrapped joints. Going to reroute the wires so the subframe can be removed without breaking the connections. Just something to think about when making this mod.

yeah definately get rid of the connector....i had been meaning for the longest to do so....changed out the stator some time ago and the oiling in the connector stopped but......but......today i went to get some gas and i smell something that seem like wires burning...and it you know of course it was...if i had got rid of that f#@king connector like i should have at that time i wouldnt be force to do it now....man i looked at that connector and it was melted together so will make repairs this week sometime...may even go ahead and replace the rectifier while i am at it.

You can see the cooking of the wires going into the shitty connector....guess will change rectifier since i dont know if it took a serious toll on that also.....advice on the rectifier from anyone?

ok i have done the connector fix. like venumb though, my wires are still getting pretty warm. no, they are getting hot. i see no oil though. the yellow wires haven't turned brown yet from the regulator like they were when i had the connector. i checked the regulator per the sevice manual. everything checks out. so why the hot wires? am i missing any tests on the regulator? did the test with the three batteries as well as checked the voltage output. i cut the fried part of the wires off, so they were clean at the joint. only thing i couldn't do was solder the joint. my barrel connectors, when stripped of the insulation, looked like an aluminum tube with a slice down the length of it. couldn't really put solder on that type of connector. could this be my problem?

latest update. i swapped out eh regulator. i also put in a piece of high temp 12 ga wire ffrom the stator to the regulator. not the entire distance. maybe 6 inches. instead of heat shrink and barrel connector i used ceramic wire nuts. figured i might be taking it apart a few times while working on it. well i ran the bike and the new regulaotr got pretty warm like the last regulator did. the two ceramic wire nuts and the two wires that did not have the high temp wire jumper on them were getting pretty warm. the one with the 12 ga high temp wire stayed pretty cool. so could the problem be that the 14 ga wires are undersized? has anyone replaced the wires like i did? if people are not having heat issues with the 14 ga wires that are on there, what am i doing wrong? the only thing to add is that i noticed several days ago that the negative on my battery has some build up on it. i cleaned it with a brush. anyone use any type of jell to help with this or to help with the ground connection?

Update on how the 12 gage wire is working out. :D

I was hopin' just to change my junction box would rectify
the problem, a couple of years ago I had some LED lights wired into it & it got damaged, so I figured I just get a new one anyway, my 12 has over 27,000 not bad for an '02

Who thinks this would be a good connector for the problem?
http://www.weco.ca/1_0/1_1/1_1_show_...type=E&id=1675

I don't know what it is, this site is like a ghost town, I guess all the die-hard zx-12 ers went out and bought zx-14's and that's where all the action is, when I first came to this site is was busy now it's a shell of its former self, Labusas.org is the same way!

What we lack in quantity we make up in quality!! :wink: :wink:

Well, got the lugs, stripped the insulation off, soldered them, was going to desolder and replace the relay switch to the headlights but after only soldering the stator wires back together the headlights were fine. I also got myself a fancy dancy air sensor for the back, now the FI light is off. (after 4 years)

did not do any soldering. Just put a connector on them and they work fine. now I have to get my tail lights to work. Have tried it all. need help. Does anyone have any ideas why I do not have taillights. have tried another fuse box, new fuse, rear brake harness, traced all wires. Is there a voltage reading when tracing the wires.

Bulb...

There are some good pics here: http://kawasakiworld.com/kawasaki-zx...or-melted.html

How the heck does the oil make it all the way up there in the first place. Quote

Man that does piss you off, I remember when I first seen it also. I was pissed.

Well this thread was developed to remove the injury part from the insult. I removed the back plug on the connector. And secured the connector plug and wires to sub frame. When you look at the connector where the wires come from the stator to the connector at the connector the rubber plug can be removed from the connector. I removed the plug and secured to subframe so that oil drains out the back of the connector. The oil has a path to exit the connector so that it don’t pool up and become a conductor between the wire posts. Its simple and it works!!!!

The black connector he is holding in his hand, where the beige wires enter into black connector. Right where the wires enter into the shell that black rubber back comes out. use a small screw driver and it can be removed. It gives the oil a place to exit. consider it a drain for the connector. sorry for stealing picture

Just fixed it to, thanks to all of you guys

Just a FYI. The online electronic component shops that stock the older relays such as the M.E.C GA-1C-12D or the NEC EQ1 series of relays, now have a minimum order of $35.00 and up. I was able to find a substitute that is more widely available. The relay is an NTE R46-5D12-12, I got it from a mom and pop electronics store in town.

so let me get some clarification.......

After spending $469.00 USD on a rectifier and a new stator, im still going to have this problem????

Ive done a similar fix on the old charging system, but a compromise in the wiring harness insulation required replacement.

I'll have to try these self pics Monday.

hey guys..I think my friend is having this same problem with his headlamps. I put HID's on it and then this week (months after the HID's were installed)....the head lamps are not working. He say's that the fuse under the tank cover was blown.

well I checked them tonight (one under the tank cover & next to the battery) & both are okay.

My question it, I read the post below and I dont know which connector to test. Does anyone have a picture of the connector with these wires? I want to test this while his bike is in the garage.

No high beams either.

I know the HID's are working, I hooked them up to an external power supply & they came on.


Thanks for any help.


**
so I think I found the wires. Jumped them & heard a relay click, then it stopped... I need help with this. The owner is going to bring over a spare junction box he has to see if this fixes it.
Need pictures that are NOT hosed on photo bucket.. please someone attach them to the post...
***

For all your Stator needs, check out: OregonMotorcycleparts.com He's awesome.

well mine completely fryed. Battery went dead light didn't work after charging. I did the wires, Fiered it up and everything worked. Shut it off and went. Next day I figured I better go test ride it. Started it an no lights and no charging. Figured I maybe had a cold joint. Re-did the wires. But still nothing so on to testing the regulator.

Has anyone been able to change the stator connection at source, that being down at the stator cover side of the engine, where the wiring comes out of the casing?

Has this already been covered in earlier posts?

Is it even possible? I've been surfing the net trying to find possible ways to adapt the connection as stated, but no real luck. I'm thinking that this would possibly cure the initial problem of oil wicking up the wiring in the first place, or would there still be problems with overheating of the wiring due to previously suggested poor choice of wiring size in the first place?

These and more questions brought to you by 'One Confused Duck'.

Cheers,

Don.

i did already last week on my bike, after discover the stator fried for the bad connection the last owner made... i`d change the stator and replace the 3 wires since stator to the connector, which was cut as described before..now testing so see if all is ok...

OK, put another Rectifier/regulator on it. Started it up. Light works but no charging going on. So is the stator gone?

Well, I can't believe it, but it just happened to me last weekend in the middle of a trip to/around the mountains of West Virginia. The wires going between the stator and the rectifier burnt up beneath the passenger seat and took out my headlights. The guys riding behind me said the bike was smoking and sparking something fierce, but I never knew anything about it until we stopped for gas. That's when we noticed the headlights were out.

Now mind you I had already cut out the plug and soldered the wires together over a year ago after reading this very thread. Looking at the wires (rolled the bike into the motel room to work on it, hehehehe) they were badly burnt up with only a few strands of one wire still connected. Everything was dry and I did not observe any oil in the area. The insulation was missing for an inch or more on a couple of the wires, and the remaining insulation was brittle and cracked easily.

I ended up cleaning the wires and soldering them back together (after a late night run to Wal-Mart for a soldering iron and supplies). I then shrink-wrapped each wire/connection, then heavily wrapped each wire with electrical tape, then taped over the whole bunch of them again. I was lucky that my headlights came back after the soldering job and that the little relay wasn't smoked. Hopefully the new soldering & added insulation will hold.

It's a damned good thing my buddy brought his little netbook computer so I could hop on here and re-read this thread.

What's the point of all this? I dunno. Perhaps, as others have noted, that merely eliminating the plug won't prevent you from having issues. I guess just be sure to check the wiring in this area from time to time to make sure everything looks ok and that the insulation isn't failing.

Maybe I shouldn't leave home without a soldering iron and a REALLY long extension cord either.

Just wondering why you guys have to do this ?, is this not covered by some type of recall ? if it isn't then it should be. Wouldn't have thought it would cost that much for Kwak to make & supply a new section of loom ? 1 without the connector in ?.

I dunno, I suppose in a perfect world it WOULD be up to Kawi to figure out the real problem and fix it. In my case I thought a fix and been figured out by this group and to me, it was easier and more efficient to just lop off the plug and solder the wires together myself in the driveway (I'm not a big fan of letting dealers work on any of my bikes).

Turns out, that wasn't a total fix, as the wires are getting very hot near the rectifier (or so it seems) where the plug was. I'm wondering now if the oil in the plug is just a CONTRIBUTING cause that, when combined with the hot wires leads to shorting and melting of wires & plugs. So, maybe there's something about the stock rectifiers then that is cooking the wires.

Another possibility is that the newly soldered connections are holding/drawing a lot of heat, which in turn melts the insulation and then the wires themselves. These are all just hypotheses though.

This finally happened to me. My bike is a 2001 with about 9700 miles on it. The recall by Kawi had not been taken care of by the previous owners, so a few months ago, I cut out the connector for the stator because it had oil in it. I didn't have problems with it, but figured I would nip this problem in the bud like everyone elso who cut the connector out and still had their headlights fry after.

Anyway I was on my way up to my dads house yesterday, 130 mile ride. About halfway there, I realized my headlight was not working. (It was day and I ride with my high beam on. My high beam indicator on the dash went out.) I get to my dad's house and, thank goodness for my iphone, I was able to look over this thread. I figured out that my headlight relay blew, so I put in a temp jumper wire. Headlights work. Bike seems ok. When I leave there, I stop to get gas about three miles away, then the bike would not start, battery was dead. I managed to push start it, and it completly dies about a minute later. So, now I think I am going to replace the rectifier, stator, and headlight relay. AAAAHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH!!
Thankfully, a buddy with a truck came and loaded my bike up and brought me home!!

Sorry to hear this affliction has struck another. Out of curiosity, how do the wires look, particularly where you soldered them before?

That is the really weird thing. The wires look perfectly good. Even when I had the connector on there, the wires never got hot. I did check them once in a while. The first thing I checked when my headlights went out was the wires and they were fine. Really a perplexing thing. But whatever, I ordered a stator, rectifier, and a headlight relay. I got the Rick's electronics stator and rectifier. I will replace them all and it should fix it. I ordered two of the headlight relays, that was all that the electronics store had in stock. So when I get my bike fixed, I should have an extra headlight relay if anyone needs one.

Yes wires fried on the Stator. I'm back up and riding after replacing STATOR

I just want to take some time to thank you guys on this forum for being a big help to all of us on this forum. I think i've worked on this bike more in the last three months since i've owned it than the 05 gixxer i had for 4 years. (maybe it just seems that way) but nonetheless, i still love this bike!!!

my battery died on me when i was getting off from work and getting ready to go home. Had to get someone to jump start it. First thing i checked was the connector. From the outside, i couldn't tell there was any oil. No leaking down onto my passenger footpeg or swing arm. But after taking apart the connector-there was oil and plenty of it.

I have pictures of a different bullet connector that may work better as far as the oil going farther up the wire into the rectifier. At least I think it'll work. I didn't feel like messing with the stator yet unless i had to. and i'm going to try that CrankCase Vent Mod i've seen mentioned on this website. the only thing is i haven't read or seen too many posts on it, so i'm a little confused on what to do to lower the pressure in the crank case.

***SO IF ANYONE can DIRECT me to that, I'd Appreciate it.****

My brother is into R/C helis, planes, cars so he had these 4mm gold plated bullet connectors he got from off a battery? or from the local Big Mike's Hobbies shop.

The brand is GreatPlanes Electrify parts and accessories GPMM3114.

The reason for me thinking this MAY help is the connectors are enclosed on the one side where you solder it. Not sure if you can see it in the pictures or not very well but its kind of like a "bowl" on the end where you solder it. I'm guessing the oil that is going up into the wires and insulation would stop there at that point.
Here's some pics i took. Let me know what ya'll think (if i'm right about what i'm thinking or i'm just plain missing it thanks.

I'm charging the battery right now 2amp it was at 11.6 but i tested the battery and it's supposed to be good. not sure yet if my rectifier got bad because of this but it seems to raise the volts when the bike is reved up. but the volts didn't go up past 12v. just to 11.8. So i'll try again after i charge the batt up. My headlights still work, so no relay was fried. but i did notice the small front light is out. Haven't checked yet to see if the bulb is out. Is that small light connected to the relay to the main headlights?

pic of the package of connectors i used

well, it looks like my rectifier is shot. My battery is not charging. at least i hope it's just the rectifier and not the stator. I'm just wondering tho, if even after you take off the connectors and the wires or headlight relay is still frying, what else can be done?

just making sure, it doesn't matter how you connect the yellow wires (which one you connect them to)? or does it?

are the pics gone for good,.i'd like to check this out?

any chance at new pics for headlight?

well, i just got a new rectifier/ regulator and put it on my bike after waiting two weeks with ronayers.com. My battery still isn't charging correctly. i'm just not getting enough output. Went to the local kawi dealer and was looking at their service manuals for info. Well i checked the ohms on the stator and they all seem to be good at .3

the local O'reillys checked my Battery on the bike and it said it was bad. Took it off the bike and it says it's good. But when cranking the bike up the volts go from 12.4 down to 3V or 1V. connected a new sealed battery onto it, it still wouldn't charge more than 12.6V

i think it's just i'm not getting enough output at 4,000 rpms AC they are only at 45V, 50V and 60V. when they should be around 85-120?V

so, i'm thinking it's the flywheel. DAMN. i have no idea how to change that. I don't have the tool for it, so my bike will be down for another week or two.

AM i right about this assumption?

seeing that there is a recall that is supposed to fix this why not bring it back to kawi and demand a repair.

Yeah, i went by there but they pretty much said the recall only covers the oil seepage in the wiring not the electrical system. apparently, all they'll try to do is cover the problem or half ass fix it. I'm going with an 04 Reg/Rec and stator and flywheel (going from what GDog mentioned in his posts) for my 02. i just hope i'll get lucky and fix it this once and have a great running bike for the next few years.

yeah I am sure thats what they would say but I am thinking with the right calls it would get covered.
The stators are going bad because of the oil in the connector, which is still leaking , it is a fire hazard which is one reason for the recall which was mandated by the gov't. maybe its not worth the hassle but I need to go look at my connector before I have these issues.

I took a look at my plugs today. I check them after long rides. went on a 200 mile ride yesterday. Well the plug with three wires had oil in it! I cleaned all of the oil out of it and put it back together. I've been thinking about taking out the plugs lately. However I have no clue when it comes to electric! I was wondering why I could not just braid the wires together and use wire nuts and wrap the wires and nuts in electric tape?!! would this work or do I need to go with connectors/solder etc...? Sorry if this is a silly idea. Like I said I have very little to no electric experience.

My bike is a salvage rebuild I'm the third owner of this bike. Will the dealer laugh at me if I call and ask about the recall? It's a 2000 12-A !

Now that I've found oil how long do I have?? My bike has 9000 miles on it.

My dealer is willing to do the recall but he explained that it was not a recall that requires parts etc... it is just a matter of using super glue around the end of the wire (to seal it)and possibly sealing the wire at the stator.

From what I gather the dealer fix is a waste of time. So I'm going to cut the plug out myself and see how it goes.