Well, It was suggested to me to start my own tuning thread. Figured you can take the honors and jack the thread or are you serious about computer tuning?
Hey, I'm new at this so I am a hit and miss guy kind of tunes itself or tunes itself out. Last night was more a few minutes to help myself to the car boys [idea]. I guess they are messing around [again] with these here sensors on their vehicles. Same spat I had with the mustank boys that could not [understand the jibberish] was how to turn off their check engine light. Same dongs who removed the 02 sensor off the rear mufflers. It sends a code for that sport muffler they just installed. They send in a single signal with an ohm resistor when the 02 sends in the 'various' it's so funny they booted me off they didn't get it!
I've already hacked this sensor and of course it goes nowhere but to a limp mode as per manual states. There may be two scenarios or maybe even three, I will know soon enough. The glue needs to setup for at least 24 hours but I let it set longer like for days.
Why do they do this? I have not a clue. One idea I read was that the response was faster. You know what that means? That means limp. Here is what I think might happen:
1. The temp in the ram is at room temp. The sensor will know this value on start-up as will the water temp know to set the choke map and all those parameters to start the bike. There is a lot of wind velocity moving past that thermometer in the ram. There is also a hotter frame that sits over that engine. There should be a temp change along with the water temp change to plot all that is the next fill into the cylinder chamber.
Having that sensor sit in still air is that one scenario that now has a [new] variable [change].
2. That variable is not cooling off when stopped sort of zero air passes over that sensor. If anything, the sun out, the heat about to change that sensor before the light changes kind of here comes that information that is not matching that faster moving air with the air that is constantly pounding it. This is where the sensor sends in a number parameter that did not sync within that input signal.
3. The manuals all have their abstract describing function. I am going to mix and match so you can follow along as to what the manual is stating. One abstract is to use this sensor as a 'various' sensor. That means it varies with many signals from summer to winter temps it varies.
On the other hand, the crank sensor is an 'ultimate' signal to fuel injection. It starts from zero degree and off she runs like a watch. But when a various drops signal, or sends in random signals that last too long in other words; the bike sitting still and the sun cooks what not is moving cooler in the air, meaning; This will send the computer to take over or more send the bike into a safe or fail-safe mode.
With that said, there is that other hack at the GPS. Basically it will mimic that same kind of safe-mode or limp-mode and that bottom rush or lower twitch that feels like you have power on the bottom is just a torque change.
4. This now become the 4th variable or the tuning step to nowhere. Either the computer senses a slow signal that cannot keep up, or a fast signal that is sporadic, and/or/possibly, a single signal that just hangs and does nothing in the 'various'; it sends that sensor off line, up comes a 'backup' signal or map as it were to replace that signal until repaired/replaced = Limp Tuned to Nowhere.
This is what you are up against as you pay for that signal. Because I have this sensor hacked a long time ago, I can find if the nose-sensor sends itself to the same hack as I toggle it on to feel the same tone = It made no difference we are limp, meaning. If there is no code sent, but that trim has change?; The AFR meter will pick up any rich sample coming down the pipe = Means you are limp'd!
I will have camera aimed at the meter and begin testing for tune. This [latest tune] might be its 3rd time out? Right now, the bike is set at 15.1:1 AFR. This is cruise mode at sustained speed. Knowing that number, then watching the meter; should park the needle toward the 14's is my guestunemation
Results will follow w/video. NOTE: For Racing Purposes Only!
I could only do this to currently the best motorcycle on the planet. Would you like to dispute this claim? Smoother/Mover than you wish your bike felt this smooth. I wish you could ride this bike. It runs like a generator. Electric Train power. And all I did was follow book procedure.