Well this afternoon I installed the micro switch. Everything looked good. I double-checked all my wires but something is wrong. When i arm the system and activate the micro switch the solenoid clicks and then blows the fuse :x I wired the hot(red) wire from the solenoid directly to the fuse box on the accessory fuse. It has constant power. I ran a ground wire to the arming switch common side, a wire from one of the other 2 connectors to my micro switch and connected the ground from the solenoid to the other connector on the micro switch to close the loop. All connections crimped or soldered. I check it with a meter. I connected the hot side of the meter to a hot source and the negative to one side of the micro switch. When armed and WOT activates the micro switch the meters reads 12v current. I know the power leads from the solenoid doesn't matter which is hot or ground and switching the ground is got to be fine since most are doing that. so my conclusion has got to be that either the 10a fuse for the accessory isn't enough for the solenoid or there may be something wrong with the solenoid. What do you guys think?

help is appreciated

run 12v to the arming switch,another from the arming switch to the button, from the other side of the button to the solinoid,and ground the remaining wire from the solinoid.....that's how i wired mine

What size fuse is it blowing. How old is the solenoid?

the accessory fuse is a 10A. I also put in a 20A and it blew that too :x
This morning I did a quick rewire to test the solenoid out. I connected the soleniod to an in-line fuse then directly to the battery. I still used the arming switch & micro switch to switch ground. I first tried a 10A that blew right after it clicked then I tried a 20A that lasted several clicks as I was activativating/unactivating but still blew. I could go up to a 30A but that shouldn't be the solution.

when armed and activated the solenoid opens and stays that way until you let go of the button. In a normal operation that could be from 8 seconds to close to a minute. The only way i see this happening is if i use a 30A fuse.

the solenoid and the rest of the NOS parts are all new. I got them ealy this year.

Will re-wiring the arming & micro switch to the hot instead of the ground really fix this? If so why? I understand that you should be able to switch either since the solenoid doesn't had a hot & ground designation.

At this point I'm leaning towards a bad solenoid but I could be wrong.

Any idea would be appreciated.

i am by no means an expert,but a quick rewire just to test can't hurt,the small nos solinoids draw less then 8 amps

with no nitrous going through the solinoids they will heat up very quickly and destroy themselves

8 seconds to a minute :shock:

i just finished testing a little more and have determined that the solenoid is bad. a 10a blows instantly, a 20a blows in 2~3 seconds. So I wired the hot side to be switched and put in a new 20a fuse. I tested by activating the system for only 2 seconds at a time and waiting for about 15 seconds between activations. It took 3 activations for the solenoid to give off this awful smell and very little smoke. The original wires on the solenoid are 18awg, good for 15a. I would think anytimke it draws more amperage then the wires can handle there has got to be something wrong with it.

OK So I'm in the market for a new solenoid, where can I get one not too expensive? the one i currently have is a coldfusionn20 solenoid. Are there better ones that are not expensive?

was that solinoid brand new ? i have put about 15 bottles through my dyno tune solinoid,works great so far,if there is a screen on the intake side get rid of it http://www.dynotunenitrous.com/store...?idcategory=32