OK I've searched several times and can't seem to find what I want. My NOS system is in, piped and ready with on exception, the horn connection. Does anyone have a picture of where to connect into for the horn button? Now let me explain a bit further. I don't want to disconnect one of my horns (I'de like them both to work) and I don't want a 6 pole switch switching several different wires for both horns either.

I would like to cut into the 2 wires directly from the horn button but not at the grip somewhere under the left side panel. I found the horn wire harnes but it seems that it splices several different leads for both horns and I just don't want to cut it to findout I'm wrong. I'm looking for a clean splice (i can't do messy). A picture is worth a thousand words :)

I was originally going to go with a microswitch and not use the button at all, but guess what, my busy life-lazy @ss took too long to get around to finishing this I can't find the microswitch :x

thanks

Mine's at the grip and is clean. Perhaps someone else has done what you mention.

i can't help you with your horn wiring question,and i probably should just go away...but heres my 2 cents worth

2 things that work very well with nitrous,a shift light and a co2 shifter,i use the horn button for the shifter and a line lock button to activate the n2o,raptor shift light



just something to think about

double post

Well last night i installed the arming switch and rpe-wired it leaving the wires available at the top of the gas tank. I managed to trace the horn button wires down to the wire connector on the left sife (shift side) of the bike. After checking for connectivity between them I am 100% certain that I have the correct wires. Then I checked the connecting pair at the other end of the connector and found that one of them is hot(live) when the key is on. So I have concluded that the horn button does not switch ground but instead closes the circuit between hot & ground. So I guess I can't use use the button unless i use the hot on my arming switch and switch hot between the solinoid or horns. It work just fine but not what I was expecting after hearing that the horn is a negative switched.

Now I'm moving on with a microswitch. Ive the system in and wired including the arming switch all that is left is to add the microswitch which I will do as soon as I go get one. I'm still working out the trunck space and how I want to mount the solinoid, pc3 usb, and the bottle. I think I can get everything in and still have some storage room.

thanks for the replies

If it doesn't fit, put the solenoid under the gas tank cover...just in front of the junction box. All a matter of preference, I'm sure some can argue against it. I installed AC tape to further separate my solenoid from the jb. Pics avail (thanks to skinart) if you need them.

if you put the solinoid up front,you will get a much quicker hit

Lou I looked at the the wiring diagram again before I made the post on how to wire. I have the solenoid wired to 12V and I switch the ground wire of the solenoid and horn with a small toggle switch. All the horn button does it put the horn to ground, and all the toggle does is flip that between the horn and the solenoid...

I'm not sure about that. I am either doing something wrong or mine is wired standard. I traced the horn button wires to a connector on the shift side of the bike and confirmed it with a continuity test. when ever i pressed the button my meter gave me a reading on the pair. Next i checked the 2 wires on the other connector that connects to the horn wires and sure enough one of them is hot when the key is on.

Because of this I tapped hot for the solinoid in the acc of the fuse box. Ran the negative from the silinoid to the arming switch then from the arming switch i plan on going to the microswitch and back finally closing the loop on the ground. Everything is looking very good. I have my solinoid and pc3 usb along with the bottle in the trunck and still have some room for my toolkit and some small items.

I just got to get out to buy the microswitch to finish it all.

thanks for the replies everyone :D

Only thing I can say is that I am taking 12V from the accessory lead under the gas tank for one lead on the solenoid. So the 12V portion of the solenoid is connected all the time. That means the negative side is being switched. If I were switching 12V then the solenoid wouldnt work because it would be like have 12V on both leads....

zxlnt i agree with you 100% i just don't understand why mine is different. is your 12 a 2000? maybe they change that on the 2001 & up. I double check it twice and had a friend take a look too and he confirmed it.

Red 00